Saccharide Isomerate to Deeply Hydrate Skin and Scalp

Sep 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: Jochen Klock, PhD, and Volker Rosenberger, PhD, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.
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Title: Saccharide Isomerate to Deeply Hydrate Skin and Scalp
saccharide isomeratex deep hydrationx moisture retentionx rinse-offx
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Keywords: saccharide isomerate | deep hydration | moisture retention | rinse-off

Abstract: Saccharide isomerate, designed to closely resemble a carbohydrate complex found in human stratum corneum, is shown here to provide up to 72 hr of deep hydration to skin and, for the first time, rinse-off soothing to the scalp. Its unique binding mechanism to skin and scalp create new opportunities for leave-on and rinse-off products.

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J Klock and V Rosenberger, Saccharide isomerate to deeply hydrate skin and scalp, Cosm & Toil 127(9) 636-643 (Sep 2012)

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Consumer interest in premium beauty products continues unabated, with a focus on scientific innovations accompanied by the desire for natural ingredients and green product lines. Trend research confirms that a strong group of buyers places particular value on high quality products with unique features; such products contribute to a sense of well-being and allow users to express their individuality through their appearance. However, a pleasing appearance and the self-confidence it inspires depend to a great extent on the health and integrity of the skin—and millions of people all over the world suffer from excessively dry skin.

In addition to considerable physical discomfort, rough, flaky or irritated and dry skin can cause psychological distress and embarrassment in social situations. Hydrating the skin therefore remains an important function of personal care products. In particular, 70% of women believe they have a sensitive scalp and seek products that give tangible relief from this condition. The scalp may feel taut and itch uncomfortably, a sign that it is in need of deep and sustained hydration.

Considering these expectations and formulating challenges, the comprehensive research and development of saccharide isomerate has shown promise for meeting the consumer need for deep, lasting hydration and a comfortable skin feeling. Tests indicating such, including those for moisture retention, skin hydration and skin barrier strengthening, are described here.

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This content is adapted from an article in GCI Magazine. The original version can be found here.

 

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Table 1. Compositions of saccharide isomerate

Table 1. Compositions of saccharide isomerate

Compositions of saccharide isomerate compared with natural SC carbohydrate complex

Figure 1. Saccharide isomerate mechanism of action

Figure 1. Saccharide isomerate mechanism of action

Saccharide isomerate binds to the ε-amino group of lysine in the keratin of corneocytes. This unique binding mechanism ensures that the active is not washed away but continues to improve hydration until removed by the natural process of desquamation.

Figure 2. Induction of gene expression by 0.3% saccharide isomerate

Figure 2. Induction of gene expression by 0.3% saccharide isomerate

The upregulation of the genes for filaggrin and hyaluronan synthase-3 indicates improved skin hydration ability by boosting NMF and hyaluronan levels.

Figure 3. Moisture accumulation in NOVA meter units

Figure 3. Moisture accumulation in NOVA meter units

The saccharide isomerate formulation instantly retained more moisture in the skin than glycerin. It also increased the skin’s moisture retention capacity by 38%, compared with the control area.

Figure 4. Skin hydration % increase

Figure 4. Skin hydration % increase

Under the same test conditions on both dry and normal skin, 5% saccharide isomerate outperformed 5% glycerin by nearly 50%.

Figure 5. Change in TEWL as an indication of skin barrier strength

Figure 5. Change in TEWL as an indication of skin barrier strength

The 1% solution was found to strengthen skin barrier function, as shown by a 20% reduction in TEWL before and after 20 subsequent tape-strippings following a 28-day application.

Figure 6. Improvement in signs of dry skin according to Kligman’s grading system

Figure 6. Improvement in signs of dry skin according to Kligman’s grading system

After the final treatment, the effects of the saccharide isomerate solution lasted for 72 hr, likely due to a buildup in the skin.

Figure 7. Skin appearance photographs

Figure 7. Skin appearance photographs

Photographs demonstrated a significant improvement in skin’s appearance after four weeks of application with the 1% saccharide isomerate solution. In addition, SC desquamation clearly was normalized.

Figure 8. Improvement in skin feel and healthy appearance

Figure 8. Improvement in skin feel and healthy appearance

After two weeks, the 1% saccharide isomerate solution improved skin softness, smoothness, flaking and itching each by 50%, and skin tightening by more than 30%. In addition, it improved skin robustness by more than 20%.

Figure 9. Reduction in TEWL (%)

Figure 9. Reduction in TEWL (%)

Saccharide isomerate was 2.3 times faster than the untreated area and as much as 24 hr faster than the leading benchmark.

Figure 10. Reduction in irritation (%)

Figure 10. Reduction in irritation (%)

Overall, saccharide isomerate reduced the irritation by twice that of the benchmark, bisabolol.

Footnotes [Klock 127(9)]

a The NOVA DPM 9003 is manufactured by NOVA Technology Corp., Porthsmouth, NH USA.

b Pentavitin (INCI: Saccharide Isomerate) is a product of DSM.

c The Tewameter TM 300, and
d The Colorimeter CL400 are manufactured by Courage and Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Germany.

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