Stimulation of Dermal and Epidermal Metabolism: An Approach to Antiaging

February 16, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Maud Jouandeaud-Le Guillou, Sylvie Bordes, Catherine Soulie and Brigitte Closs, Silab; Patrice Andre, LVMH Parfums & Cosmetiques
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Keywords: Retinol-like | epidermal metabolism | extracellular matrix protection | mallow extract | keratinocytes

Abstract: Aging results in a number of modifications to cells and tissues. Here the authors describe an active ingredient from common mallow whose active fraction containing polyphenols and galacturonic acids is able to regulate both dermal and epidermal metabolism much like retinoids do.

Skin aging is a complex process, controlled by both genetic determination (chronologic aging) and the influence of modifi cations resulting from external factors (extrinsic aging). Intrinsic or chronologic aging is genetically programmed. It is a progressive phenomenon that occurs with a variable rapidity depending on the individual. It affects the skin in the same way it affects other organs. Environmental aging is superimposed over chronologic aging, primarily in skin areas chronically exposed to the sun.

Skin aging results in a number of modifi cations to both cells and tissues. A number of studies have shown the reduced proliferation capacity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts resulting from the aging process. In addition, the synthetic capacities of cultured fibroblasts decrease—old fibroblasts synthesize smaller quantities of collagen I and III than young fibroblasts. Skin aging thus results in a general reduction of cell metabolism and protein synthesis capacities. All these variations in the biology of the dermis and epidermis are shown by a visible change in the surface appearance of the skin. It is less fi rm and less elastic and wrinkles appear, initially around the eyes and on the face.