The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability

Feb 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Christine Mendrok-Edinger, Kimberly Smith, Anne Janssen and Jürgen Vollhardt, DSM Nutritional Products
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Title: The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability
Avobenzonex butyl methoxydibenzoyl methanex photostablex sunscreensx UVAx
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Keywords: Avobenzone | butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane | photostable | sunscreens | UVA

Abstract: Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) is well-known as an effective UVA filter when it is stabilized. Here, the authors measure the efficiency of ten commercially available products that are reported to stabilize BMDBM. The most effective product found was octocrylene that, being a UVB filter, also contributed to the SPF.

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Over the past 10 years, awareness of the detrimental effects of unprotected UV exposure has increased and, as a result, consumers are seeking higher levels of protection. Regulators and the industry have responded by requiring more stringent testing and providing more complete and balanced UV protection, respectively. In relation to testing, new regulations and guidelines were introduced in Europe, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) proposed a new monograph in 2007, and a globally harmonized standard is currently being developed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

The most significant changes within these regulations are the new requirements for UVA protection and the added test for photostability of finished sunscreen formulations. The majority of sun care products currently require SPF levels of at least 30, reaching upwards of 50+. As a result, high levels of UVA protection are required in order to make a UVA claim, as well as to meet the guidelines. To confirm that UVA efficacy guidelines have been met, conform tests are available. In addition, the photostability of these materials must be demonstrated. Fulfilling these factors proves to be challenging in the EU, and is even more so if the FDA star-rating system is to be employed.

The objective of the present study was to establish photostability and UVA protection in several test sunscreen formulations. As will be shown here, butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) exhibited the strongest and widest absorption curve of all the commercially available UVA filters tested. Thus, if properly stabilized, BMDBM could transfer its spectral performance benefits into higher levels of UVA protection. Since formulators seek robust UV filter combinations but are limited by cost, the authors explored several methods to photostabilize BMDBM. The performance of ten commercially available products that claim to stabilize BMDBM was investigated and their efficacy measured via two different test methods.

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Mendrok Table 1

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Mendrok Table 2

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Mendrok Figure 1a

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Mendrok Figure 2

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Mendrok Figure 3

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Mendrok Footnote

a Parsol 1789 (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane) is a product of DSM Nutritional Products.

b The Atlas SunTester XLS+ used for this study is a device from Atlas Material Testing Technology GmbH, Germany.

c The Agilent 1100 with Diode Array Detection (DAD) used for this study was from Agilent Technologies, and the Insertsil ODS-2 column used was from Chrompack.

d The m.u.t/Helias instrument is a device of m.u.t. GmbH, Germany. 

e Finsolve TN (INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) is a product of Innospec Active Chemicals.

f  Myritol 318 (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is a product of Fitz Chem Corp.

Mendrok Formula 1

 Mendrok Formula 1

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