Challenges in Sun Care Formulating

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: January 9, 2012

Sun care is a constant among dynamic consumer trends, whether in the form of anti-aging and even skin tone products; as an added benefit to color cosmetics; or as straightforward sunscreens for both skin and hair. However, this category still poses several issues to product developers. Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) recently asked its audience, “What are the biggest challenges when sun care formulating?” Following are your responses—many of which you might expect. Join our LinkedIn Group to add to this discussion.

“Achieving what marketing wants while complying with regulations and making sunscreens aesthetically pleasing (so consumers will use them).”

“The lack of international harmonization in UV filters, UVA testing and labeling.”

“Obtaining affordable SPF and now, spectrum testing.” And in relation to testing, “Achieving a critical wavelength of 370 nm (required by the [US Food and Drug Administration] FDA in order to make a broad-spectrum claim) when avobenzone cannot be used.” Although another reader noted, “Photostability with avobenzone has become a minor issue with the new photostabilizing materials available.”

“The sometimes contradicting combination of requirements by customers;” for example: meeting the targeted claim within the cost parameters, in formulations that also boost efficacy and appeal sensory-wise to the consumer. In addition, there is the need for product differentiation, e.g., with non-UV filter ingredients.