Formulation and Evaluation of Self-tanners

Jun 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: S. Peter Foltis, L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ, USA
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Title: Formulation and Evaluation of Self-tanners
DHAx Maillard reactionx deliveryx spectrophotometryx moisturizationx
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Keywords: DHA | Maillard reaction | delivery | spectrophotometry | moisturization

Abstract: Self-tanning preparations are becoming increasingly important for consumers desiring a tanned look without exposing themselves to undue harm. The present article reviews DHA and other self-tanning active ingredients and their mechanisms of action. Formulating hallenges such as stability and ingredient interactions are discussed, as well as the evaluation and regulation of self-tanning products.

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SP Foltis, Formulation and evaluation of self-tanners, Cosm & Toil 127(6) 442-445 (Jun 2012)

Market Data

  • Skin care consumers are seeking multifunctional products such as BB creams and products customized for specific skin problems.
  • Multifunctional products are prized for their value and convenience, and are becoming increasingly popular in beauty brands.
  • Tailored products target specific skin issues, imparting the idea that it can focus all its efforts and ingredients on solving that one problem, hopefully affecting a more immediate and impactful outcome.
  • As long as skin care remains a strong trend, both types of products will likely maintain a presence in consumers’ skin care regimens.
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Social norms for tanning in many parts of the world have dramatically changed in recent times. Before the Industrial Revolution, tanned skin conveyed the social status of an outdoor laborer; post-revolution, however, many jobs moved indoors and the general wealth of the public increased—along with paid vacations and modified work weeks. Thus, the public was able to enjoy leisure time, especially outdoors, and having a tan then conveyed a social status of wealth, especially during the winter months. Indeed, many college students enjoy their “spring break” in Florida, Mexico and other warm destinations. This practice has been taking place as almost a ritual for the past 50 years on US college campuses.

While more information has become available regarding the negative effects of UV exposure, and the public is beginning to slowly understand the dangers and thereby modify lifestyle choices toward safer sun practices, the change has been slow because sun exposure behavior is in part influenced by psychological and societal factors, as well as general confusing messages from nongovernmental organizations (NGOs), bloggers, etc. Self-tanning preparations are therefore becoming an increasingly important option for those desiring a tanned look without exposing themselves to undue harm, although there is as yet some reticence among the public for using them. This article reviews the ingredients and mechanisms of action of self-tanners, in addition to the formulating challenges of such products.

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This content is adapted from an article in GCI Magazine. The original version can be found here.



Figure 1. Chemical structure of DHA

Figure 1. Chemical structure of DHA

DHA is a triose and the simplest of all ketoses.

Footnote [Foltis 127(6)]

a Heliostatine IS (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract) is a product of Ashland Specialty Products.

b AC DermaPeptide Tanning (INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate) is a product of Active Concepts, LLC.

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