“Feels like an oil, acts like an oil, but it’s not an oil.” Okay, then what is this emollient? It is chemically equivalent to other types of squalane derived from shark liver or olive, but created during an exclusive fermentation process from sugarcane. Peter Thomas Roth's Oilless Oil 100% Purified Squalane claims to “soften skin and help improve the look of fine lines, wrinkles, radiance and hydration.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.
The ONLY ingredient in the product is squalane. The “uniqueness” of the product is based on the proprietary processing method of the sugarcane, yet there are no comparisons in the claims substantiation for squalane counterparts from olive or shark liver, the second of which is rarely used in the cosmetic industry today.
The claims are based on a three-week consumer perception study on 50 women ranging in age from 30 to 75 years old, concerning the appearance of their skin. It would have been interesting to see whether or not the same claims could be made for the vegetable-derived squalane.