While the benefits of minerals from the Dead Sea have long been touted, AHAVA Dead Sea Osmoter Concentrate features the company's Osmoter technology, a complex of Dead Sea minerals claimed to activate the natural cellular process to "rehydrate, illuminate and recharge the skin." This product is the only to contain a triple concentration of the complex. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.
This formula is a w/s emulsion with butylene glycol, Sigesbeckia orientalis (from the sunflower family), Rabdosia rubescens (dong ling cao), Aloe barbadensis leaf juice and glycerin as the humectants/moisturizers. Dimethicone, cyclomethicone, isodecyl isononanoate, diisobutyl adipate and dimethiconol are emollients. Capryl methicone (and) PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer is the emulsifier. The thickening and stabilizing agent is hydroxyethyl acrylate\sodium acryloydimethyl taurate copolymer, which produces a satin feel.
The “bioactive” or cosmeceutical ingredients are the citric, lactic and ascorbic acid as well as the Citrus reticulata (mandarin orange) fruit and Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) fruit extracts. Also featured are sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, biosaccharide gum-1, fructose, phosphatidylcholine, bisabolol, olive squalene, Argania spinosa (argan) kernel oil, Lamimaria digitata (oarweed), Olea europaea (olive) leaf, Vitis vinifera (grape) seed and Camellia sinensis (green tea) extracts. Glucosyl hesperidin is more commonly known as a blood pressure medication, but is used to help promote blood circulation in skin care. The oily extract of Melissa officinalis (lemon balm) has various skin conditioning properties.
The preservative system consists of phenoxyethanol. Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol stabilize the formula against UV degradation. Fragrance as well as tris (tetramethyl hydroxy) piperidinol citrate scent the product. There are numerous “benefit” ingredients listed; however, none of the specific minerals in the Osmoter technology are prominent in the deck.