Formulating Sun Care with Naturals

Sep 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: Art Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors
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Title: Formulating Sun Care with Naturals
sun carex naturalsx inorganicx mineralsx
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Keywords: sun care | naturals | inorganic | minerals

Abstract: The industry continues to seek protection from the sun without chemical reactions on the skin, in the body or in the environment.

Market Data

  • Awareness among consumers about the harmful effects of UV boosted sun care sales by 6.5% in 2012 in the United States.
  • Sun care marketers are diversifying their product offerings; a common trend emerging is to include tint.
  • Although spray-on sun care products are popular, there are rising concerns associated with the inhalation of nanoparticles.
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Serving again as a judge for the local science fair, this author reflected on the year’s prior event and a project adjacent to the garlic-for-acne study discussed in the last edition of this column. The project was an attempt to measure the in vitro SPF of commercial products using photosensitive paper from a child’s hobby kit. Expecting to find a solar focus in this year’s entries, it was surprising to see submissions take a different direction—toward capturing the electricity generated by UV light. Both titanium dioxide and plant pigments were the absorptive molecules of interest, and demonstrations showed how their energy transfer abilities could be capture UV energy rather than just deflect it.

In contrast, the industry continues to seek protection from the sun without chemical reactions on the skin, in the body or in the environment. A keynote lecture from the most recent International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference in Thailand identified four challenges to address for eco-friendly photoprotection, including: improving consumer understanding of adequate sun protection, increasing compliance by formulating more esthetic products, increasing unit effectiveness of actives in products to minimize environmental impact, and improving assessment methods for predicting ecotoxicity to guide formulation.These key points comprise a good framework from which to build new products that balance individual consumer needs with effects on both the user and the environment. Natural formulations offer one avenue of approach to meet these challenges.

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This is an excerpt of an article from GCI Magazine. The full version can be found here.

 

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Table 1. Sunscreen actives status with organic/natural certifying organizations

Table 1. Sunscreen actives status with organic/natural certifying organizations

Table 2. UV/Vis-absorbing phytochemicals

Table 2. UV/Vis-absorbing phytochemicals

Bio: Arthur Georgalas

Arthur Georgalas has conducted formulation work and applied research in various product categories at several leading cosmetic manufacturers, and more recently, established his consultancy, Georgalas Endeavors LLC. Georgalas is an active member of the IFSCC, SCC and NYSCC and has presented at many conferences. As an adjunct professor, he instructs two classes in the cosmetic science master’s program at Fairleigh Dickinson University, and presents courses in botanicals and formulation for the SCC Continuing Education Program. He also serves as a subject matter expert for the recently launched Cosmetics & Toiletries Complete Cosmetic Chemist course, “Developing Natural Cosmetic Formulations.”

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