Long Wear Lash

October 27, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Katie Schaefer
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National Starch Personal Care

Water (aqua), 45.00
Steareth-10 (Volpo S-10, Croda)  0.10

Hydroxethylcellulose (Natrosol 250MR, Aqualon), 0.20

Water (aqua), 3.00
Tris amino tromethamine (Dow), 1.00

A-1403 (Iron Oxides (Black), Color Techniques), 10.00

Butylene glycol, 5.00
Methylparaben (Nipagin M, Clariant), 0.30

Stearic acid (Emersol 132, Cognis Cerasynt SD), 3.50
Glyceryl stearate, 3.50
Beeswax (ISP, White Beeswax), 6.00 
Copernica cerifera (carnauba) wax (Carnauba Wax #1(yellow), Strahl & Pitsch Inc.), 4.00
Polybutene (Indopol H-1500, Lipo), 0.10 
Propylparaben (Protameen Chemicals), 0.10

Acrylates copolymer (Dermacryl C Polymer, National Starch), 15.00

Water (aqua), 3.00
Diazolidinyl Urea (Germall II, ISP), 0.20

Procedure: Obtain tare weight of a stainless steel beaker. To the beaker, combine A (add 20g extra water to account for water loss upon heating) and begin mixing with a standard propeller blade. Begin heating to about 50ºC. Once A is melted, begin homogenizing slowly. Sift B into A slowly. Continue to homogenize slowly to prevent foaming. In a separate vessel combine C. Once B is dispersed, add C to the batch. Add the liquid down the side of the beaker to prevent splashing. Separately, combine D and 5g extra (for waste) to a mason jar that can attach to a blender. Blend D at high speed for about 25 seconds, avoiding overheating the pigment. Remove from blender and stir to redistribute pigment. Blend again for another 25 seconds. Slowly add the D to the batch. Combine E in a separate vessel. Add to the batch. Begin heating the batch to 85ºC-90ºC while homogenizing at low speed. Once completely incorporated and the beaker is at temperature, remove and check the weight. Add 40-50g of water theory above to combat water loss from heat and material trapped in homogenizer. Combine F. Heat to 85ºC-90ºC with stirring. When both the batch and F have reached 85ºC-90ºC, add F to the batch while homogenizing. Slightly increase the speed of homogenizer to maintain the level of stirring. Cover and maintain agitation and temperature for 5 minutes. Allow formulation to air cool to 60ºC.  Add G to the batch when the temperature has reached 60ºC. Add G slowly to avoid splashing. Once G is dispersed, check the weight to determine water loss. Add back 10g of water less than theory, assuming 10g of product remains on the homogenizer. Cool batch to 45ºC with cool water. Continue to homogenize and use a spatula to sidesweep. Combine H in a separate vessel. Add to batch. At 35ºC, switch mixing to paddle stirrer. Cool to 30ºC.