Deciphering Anti-wrinkle Skin Care Formulas

Feb 1, 2011 | Contact Author | By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
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Title: Deciphering Anti-wrinkle Skin Care Formulas
anti-wrinkle skin carex anti-agingx antioxidantsx hyaluronic acidx
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Keywords: anti-wrinkle skin care | anti-aging | antioxidants | hyaluronic acid

Abstract: For consumers, antiaging has many definitions and is a marketing position for a variety of topical personal care products. Within the antiaging category are a number of consumer products claiming to prevent or treat facial wrinkling.

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E Abrutyn, Deciphering Anti-wrinkle Skin Care Formulas, Cosmet & Toil 126(2) 84 (2011)

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For consumers, antiaging has many definitions and is a marketing position for a variety of topical personal care products. Within the antiaging category are a number of consumer products claiming to prevent or treat facial wrinkling. As is generally known, wrinkles occur as skin ages and are associated with causes that are genetic and environmental. For example, changes such as a decrease in both the number of fibroblasts and biosynthetic changes of biomolecules, based on large extra-cellular matrix molecular weight, as well as dermis atrophy are accentuated in the dermis.

In addition, external assault especially from sun exposure accelerates facial wrinkling. Therefore, skin aging can be attributed to both physiological skin changes and photodegradation. Moisture and collagen content and the immune responsiveness of skin are the main factors causing wrinkle formation. This is based on a decrease in the diameter or decomposition of collagen and elastin, along with the expansion of blood vessels. In the end, the mechanical strength and viscoelastic properties of the dermis are compromised, allowing skin to stretch under the influence of its own weight.

To address to this change, consumers seek products that make them look younger by toning the skin or visually hiding negative attributes. To such an end, active cosmetic ingredients have been developed to fight the loss of skin tone by simultaneously lifting and smoothing the skin and improving its viscoelastic properties. However, anti-wrinkle products that inspire such physiological changes and tout such benefits raise questions as to whether they are truly cosmetics or are more pharmaceutical in nature.

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Table 1. Bottega Verde Mielexpertise Intense Antiaging Eye Contour Cream

Bottega Verde Mielexpertise Intense Antiaging  Eye Contour Cream

This cream is described as an intensive, fast-absorbing, antiaging eye contour cream featuring a re-densifying, anti-wrinkle formula enriched with the company’s patented ingredients Cuore di Miele (honey essence) and Pluridefence, which are claimed to have revitalizing, antioxidant and firming effects to leave skin soft and radiant and protect against pollution.

Table 2. Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Eye Cream

Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Eye Cream

This eye cream is formulated with a blend of natural linoleic acid from safflower with retinyl acetate to lift the look of wrinkles; rice protein to fortify skin’s structure; and argan extract to make skin look firmer.

Table 3. Reviva Labs Collagen-Fibre Eye Pads with Myoxinol

Table 3. Reviva Labs Collagen-Fibre Eye Pads with Myoxinol

These eye pads are said to contain 100% pure, freeze- dried collagen, which is reported to impart quick, Botox-like benefits to skin; instantly hydrate to help diminish wrinkles, bags, puffiness or dark circles; and relax the under-eye tissue to aid anti-wrinkle action.

Figure 1. Bottega Verde Mielexpertise Intense Antiaging Eye Contour Cream

Bottega Verde Mielexpertise Intense Antiaging Eye Contour Cream

The cream shown is described as an intensive, fast-absorbing, antiaging eye contour cream featuring a re-densifying, anti-wrinkle formula enriched with the company’s patented ingredients Cuore di Miele (honey essence) and Pluridefence, which are claimed to have revitalizing, antioxidant and firming effects to leave skin soft and radiant and protect against pollution.

Figure 2. Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Eye Cream

Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti-Wrinkle  Firming Eye Cream

This eye cream is formulated with a blend of natural linoleic acid from safflower with retinyl acetate to lift the look of wrinkles; rice protein to fortify skin’s structure; and argan extract to make skin look firmer.

Figure 3. Reviva Labs Collagen-Fibre Eye Pads with Myoxinol

Reviva Labs Collagen-Fibre Eye Pads with Myoxinol

These eye pads are said to contain 100% pure, freeze- dried collagen, which is reported to impart quick, Botox-like benefits to skin; instantly hydrate to help diminish wrinkles, bags, puffiness or dark circles; and relax the under-eye tissue to aid anti-wrinkle action.

Antioxidants

Retinol and esters
Ascorbic acid and esters
Tocopherol and esters
Cholecalcipherol
Acetyl hexapeptide-22
Decapeptide-6
Citrus medica vuglaris fruit extract
Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract
Hydrolyzed grape skin
Olea europaea (olive) fruit unsaponifiables
Prunus cerasus (bitter cherry) fruit extract
Alpha lipoic acid
Caffeic acid and derivatives
Ferulic acid
Alpha hydroxyl acid and derivatives
Lycopene
Resorcinol
Resveratrol

Biography: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, a Cosmetics & Toiletries scientific advisory board member, and chairman of the Personal Care Products Council’s International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Committee. Recently retired from Kao Brands, Abrutyn founded TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc., a personal care consultancy. He has more than 35 years of experience in the raw material supplier and skin and hair care manufacturer aspects of personal care.

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