Fun fact: I have my bachelor’s degree in chemistry, and I thought for a long time that I wanted to be a cosmetic chemist. Like many coming-of-age girls in college in 2016, I was obsessed with makeup, watching tutorials online and waiting for the latest launches. I started researching the science behind makeup and how my favorite products were made.
I may have taken a different path with my career and become a writer, but my curiosity and fascination with cosmetic chemistry still remains. This is science in real life; concepts explained in textbooks coming to fruition in bottles and jars.
This month’s issue focuses on biotechnology and how formulators are leveraging scientific knowledge in their products. In our Expert Opinions column, several industry leaders discuss the latest biotech used in cosmetics, namely fermentation and enzyme technology. They all agree that ingredients can be synthesized at a higher quality and more sustainably in bioreactors, two major goals in ingredient manufacturing. The key now is to translate that technology into meaningful and measurable innovation.
Michelle Shieh of Amorepacific writes about how K-beauty is bringing advances not only in active ingredients but also in next-generation delivery systems. Delivery technologies, such as liposomes, exosomes and spicules, in tandem with ingredients like PDRN and Vitamin C are being used in K-beauty products and are starting to take the rest of the beauty industry by storm. This wave of innovation from Asian markets is only beginning.
Dr. Sara De Mattia and Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda explore grooming and personal care for pets, an area that is also very quickly growing. Who says our furry friends don’t deserve quality products too? They explain some of the concepts behind veterinary dermatology and how both physiology and behavior should be taken into account for these formulations.
Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul and Nattaya Lourith from Mae Fah Luang University present their research in tea catechins, produced using biotechnology and through upcycling tea leaves, and their potential as anti-aging ingredients. They discuss the biosynthesis of catechin extracts and the importance of rigorous quality control for market-ready production.
All of these pieces demonstrate the importance of science-backed beauty, using biology and chemistry to our advantage. I feel so lucky that I get to live out my cosmetic chemistry fantasy through my work at Cosmetics & Toiletries. I promise I won’t get tired of hearing about new data and new mechanisms.
