'Testing Tactics in Hair' Column Series — An Index of Works by Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

Nov 10th, 2023

From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, 'Testing Tactics in Hair' for C&T, which is treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care space. Following is an index, complete with links.

From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, "Testing Tactics in Hair" for C&T, which is treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care space. Following is an index, complete with links.

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From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, "Testing Tactics in Hair" for Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T), covering methods to measure hair damage, treatments, claims and more. It is a treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care segment.

Following is an index of these works, linked to the full articles in past digital editions of C&T; plus two archived articles (one provided as a download, one linked to our website), to complete the set. Note that you must be logged in to access the digital magazines but creating an account is FREE. Also, please allow several moments for the pages to load. We hope this is a useful tool to you.

Archived Article:

August 2011: Evaluating Hair Conditioning with Instrumental Combing

November 2014: Hair as a Test Substrate

Columns:

May 2013: Consumer vs. Scientific Language: Relating In vivo and In vitro (beginning of column)

August 2013: Measuring Hair Strength, Part 1; Stress-strain Curves

Dec 2013: Measuring Hair Strength, Part 2; Fiber Breakage

March 2014: Measuring the Water Content of Hair

June 2014: Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products

Sept 2014: Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products, Part 2

Jan/Feb 2015: Quantifying Hair Color Fading

May 2015: Defining and Controlling Frizz

June 2015: Beating the Damaging Effects of Heat on Hair

Jan 2016: Coiffed Conundrum; Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine

March 2016: Modifying Hair's Structure from the Inside

June 2016: Nonreactive Paths to Internal Changes; Modifying Hair's Structure from the Inside, Part 2

Sept 2016: A Sunny Disposition; The Effects of Sun on Hair

Nov/Dec 2016: The Perplexing Topic of Hair 'Type' - How Do We Classify Hair?

April 2017: How Damaged is Hair? Part One: Surface Damage

June 2017: How Damaged is Hair? Part II: Internal Damage

July/Aug 2017: How Damaged is Hair? Part III: Better Defining the Problem

Sept 2017: New Ideas on Breakage: Mending Existing Flaws

June 2018: Body Talk: Defining Volume - A Technical Dissertation on Hair Body and Volume

Oct 2018: Your Hair on Acid: The Influence of Carboxylic Acids

Nov/Dec 2018: Quantifying Visual Aspects of Hair

March 2019: Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair

June 2019: Grooming Habits: A New Focus for Ethnic Care

Nov/Dec 2019: A Soft Touch: Concepts in Hair Softness

April 2020: Conscientious Claims: Consumer Perception Before Formulation

June 2020: Beyond Biology: Why African Hair is Fragile

Sept 2020: Testing Equipment: A 'Buyer's Guide'

All updates were effective immediately upon release except the revised test methods, which are scheduled to come into force on March 1, 2024.

China Updates: Benzene Limit, 19 Test Method Revisions, Benvitimod/Tapinarof Ban

China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) recently issued Notice No. 41, limiting benzene impurities in cosmetics, revising five and adding 14 test methods, and banning the tapinarof skin treatment for psoriasis.

Cosmetic Victories Trophy Adobe Stock 336135626

2 Winners and 4 Finalists Shine in 2023 Cosmetic Victories Competition

Cosmetic Victories finalists included a human skin model, natural senolytic ingredient, photoactivable algae derivative for anti-acne effects, a palm oil alternative and both in vitro sunscreen ecotoxicity and contaminant testing. See who won.

Learn more about RNA sequencing and how it benefits claims support in this exclusive podcast, sponsored by Genemarkers. Register now to listen; it's free.

[podcast] How RNA Sequencing Advances Claims Support

RNA sequencing is a newer, more dynamic approach than DNA sequencing to measure the effects of ingredients and products on skin. Rishabh Kala, Ph.D., of Genemarkers, explains its capabilities in this sponsored podcast. Listen now; it's free.

Sustainable Actives from ICSC’s Certified Precision Climate Farming

Sustainable Actives from ICSC’s Certified Precision Climate Farming

ICSC offers a range of sustainable active ingredients produced from plants grown in certified Precision Climate Farming facility in Denmark with zero chemicals, optimized level of actives, extracted with Greener Technology for efficacy and stability.

Genemarkers Ct2302 Lead

Environmental Stress Panel for Evaluating Diesel Particulate Matter==> download our unique Gene Expression Panels Guide at no cost

Genemarkers, a trusted partner for applying genomic technologies to personal care product development, has launched a new testing service to evaluate how product formulations protect or repair skin in response to diesel particulate matter (DPM).

A letter from the FDA to Valisure, dated Dec. 5, 2022, highlighted 'methodological deficiencies' and 'analytic descrepancies' in the company's testing.

FDA, Unilever and GSK Challenge Valisure's Benzene Findings, Test Methods

The FDA recently raised concerns over the test methods of Valisure, the Connecticut-based lab whose reports over benzene in sunscreen and dry shampoo products from Unilever, GSK and others have prompted recalls and class action suits.

This review first assesses the methods used to quantify 1,4-dioxane in surface water and drinking water, then extends the assessment to more complex commercially available products.

[updated] How to Ensure Cleansers Comply with Growing 1,4-Dioxane Regulations

A review in the Journal of Surfactants and Detergents explored means of measuring 1,4-dioxane levels in cleansers in order to comply with increasing ppm restrictions set by U.S. states. In this update, industry expert Tony O'Lenick adds context.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

Genemarkers Ct2209 Lead

Next-generation Sequencing for Personal Care Product Development

Introducing Genemarkers’ NextGen sequencing, a cost-effective method for analyzing differentially expressed genes to detect novel biomarkers. This method can help discover new pathways and biological mechanisms of action for ingredients and formulations.

This year's contenders were put through a grueling review by our esteemed panel of judges. Find out who wins the 'claims testing method/tool' category at the Awards Dinner on Sept. 28, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.

Which Claims Test/Tool Will Win the C&T Allē Award?

Which claims testing method or tool will win the Cosmetics & Toiletries Allē Award? Here are the finalist profiles. Find out who wins on Sept. 28, 2022, at the exclusive Awards Dinner, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.

The authors believe that adding the properties of a wide range of commercial sunscreens to the system database will increase the rate of appropriate sunscreen usage by customers.

AmorePacific, Hanyang Univ. Dynamically Visualize UV Dose on SPF-protected Skin

Work by AmorePacific and Hanyang University, Seoul, published in Skin Research & Technology, reveals a dynamic approach to visualize UV dose based on MED, weather, outdoor activity, etc., on SPF-protected skin.