Most Recent in Testing

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Sep 17, 2014M.S. Leo, S. Fitzmaurice, H.I. Maibach, MD, and W. Liao, University of California at San Francisco, San Francisco, CA USA; C.L. Emson, G. Lindwall, K.W. Li and S.M. Turner, Kinemed Inc., Emeryville, CA USA; and M.K. Hellerstein, University of California at Berkeley, Berkeley, CA US

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

Improving the UV Exposure of Sunscreen During In vitro Testing

Aug 25, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen

In any sun protection evaluation method, an irradiation step is required to determine the photostability of the UV filters in a product. The aim of this study was to identify key parameters involved to improve this UV exposure. Here, the authors consider temperature at the substrate surface, air flow influence and beam uniformity during UV exposition.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 2

Aug 21, 2014Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

A previous article discussed traditional measurements to assess the properties of hair spray products. However, the properties of polymer films deposited by these products are not constant and can be altered by both formulation means and environmental conditions. This article highlights additional useful measurement techniques for characterizing these film properties.

Testing and Developing a Sugar-derived Surfactant Blend for Delicate Skin

Jul 1, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, and Nicola Lionetti, Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research, Milan, Italy; Adriana Bonfigli, PhD, ISPE Srl, Milan, Italy; Giambattista Rastrelli, PhD, Kalichem Italia Srl, Botticino Sera, Brescia, Italy; and Andrea Baratto, Unifarco Srl, Santa Giustina, Belluno, Italy

Vegetable-derived, mild and sustainable skin cleansing ingredients are in demand, and this has led to the development of new detergent structures. Described here is a combination of two mild surfactants that fulfils these requirements using the concept of “interrupted soap” to impart mildness. Studies to verify the functional, sensorial and mild characteristics of the new blend are detailed.

From the Archives … Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength

Jun 1, 2014J. Alan Swift, University of Liverpool, Liverpool UK; Surinder P. Chahal and Debra L. Coulson, Croda Colloids Ltd., Ditton, Cheshire UK; Nicholas I. Challoner, Croda Oleochemicals Ltd., Goole, East Yorkshire UK

From the December 2001 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries, this article describes how both bending and abrasion should be tested–along with extension–when evaluating hair strength, as the authors show here in tests of an active developed to increase the strength of bleached hair.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

May 20, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Proposed Method to Evaluate the Microbiological Stability of Cosmetics During Use

May 1, 2014Nadine Bresciani, Valérie Poulet and Nathalie Collard, Anemcoli, Lille, France; Raphaél Dugue, Laboratoire Midac, Loos, France

The authors propose an approach to assess the microbial stability of a product during use, referred to as the Microbiological Use Test (MUT), and apply this analysis in case studies to predict the microbiological risk of commercial products. The described test has been used successfully in the development of cosmetics.

Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties

May 1, 2014Olga Freis, PhD, Gilles Perie and Andreas Rathjens, BASF Beauty Creations/Care Solutions, Pulnoy and Essey-lès-Nancy, France

The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.

Octocrylene Concerns Flag Industry's Attention

Apr 23, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

The industry reacts to a new study published in Contact Dermatitis reviews reports of the UV absorber octocrylene for its potential to cause photo contact allergy.

Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation

Mar 20, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen Labs, Creil, France

SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.

Researchers Dig Deeper Into Relationship Between Bacteria and Atopic Dermatitis

Mar 4, 2014

Researchers from the Drexel University College of Medicine have established a clearer relationship between Staphylococci bacteria and the conditions atopic dermatitis (AD) and eczema.

Collagens I and III, and Elastin Activation for Anti-aging

Feb 24, 2014D. Auriol and G. Redziniak Libragen; and H. Chajra, K. Schweikert and F. Lefevre, Induchem

As an alternative to semi-invasive facial rejuvenation techniques, the authors developed an active ingredient to reactivate senescent fibroblasts by stimulating metabolic pathways for collagens I and III, and elastin. The biological activity of the resulting ingredient is investigated here using in vitro models, ex vivo explants and human volunteers.

Measuring the Water Content of Hair

Feb 21, 2014Trefor A Evans, T.A Evans LLC

Consumers have demonstrated a clear desire for hair that isn’t “dried out” while also demonstrating a clear distaste for the effects of high humidity on hair. To find the balance in creating products, it is necessary to have an accurate means of measuring hair’s water content. This article describes equipment used to perform this task while highlighting experimental variables that can produce suspect results and lead to incorrect conclusions.

‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims

Jan 24, 2014Chris McLeod, HPCI Media

Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.

State of São Paulo in Brazil Bans Cosmetic Testing on Animals

Jan 24, 2014

This ban in the Brazilian state follows a ban from India, Israel and the European Union, as well as debate and potential regulation changes in countries like China.

Liverpool Student Develops Alternative to Draize for Testing Mascara Irritation

Jan 8, 2014

Researchers at the University of Liverpool have developed a testing method alternative to the Draize test for mascara eye irritation using protozoa rather than animals. In addition to the new method not using rabbits, it was found to be cheaper and more reliable.

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.