Most Recent in Testing

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Nov 19, 2014A.P. Gasparelo†, ‡; C. Dal Pizzol†; P. Fernanda Campos de Menezes†; R.V. Knapik†; M.A. Trindade Costa†; M.R. Machado Prado‡; and C.E. de Oliveira Praes†; † Grupo Boticário, São José dos Pinhais, Brazil; and ‡ Faculdades Pequeno Príncipe, Curitiba, Brazil

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

Hair as a Test Substrate

Nov 12, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD; TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ USA

Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.

L'Oréal Obtains Business License to Market Chinese Episkin

Oct 8, 2014

L'Oréal was granted a Chinese business license for Shanghai Episkin Biotechnology Ltd., the company it created to market the Asian version of its reconstructed skin model Episkin.

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Sep 17, 2014M.S. Leo, S. Fitzmaurice, H.I. Maibach, MD, and W. Liao, University of California, San Francisco, CA USA; C.L. Emson, G. Lindwall, K.W. Li and S.M. Turner, Kinemed Inc., Emeryville, CA USA; and M.K. Hellerstein, University of California, Berkeley, CA US

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

Improving the UV Exposure of Sunscreen During In vitro Testing

Aug 25, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen

In any sun protection evaluation method, an irradiation step is required to determine the photostability of the UV filters in a product. The aim of this study was to identify key parameters involved to improve this UV exposure. Here, the authors consider temperature at the substrate surface, air flow influence and beam uniformity during UV exposition.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 2

Aug 21, 2014Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

A previous article discussed traditional measurements to assess the properties of hair spray products. However, the properties of polymer films deposited by these products are not constant and can be altered by both formulation means and environmental conditions. This article highlights additional useful measurement techniques for characterizing these film properties.

Testing and Developing a Sugar-derived Surfactant Blend for Delicate Skin

Jul 1, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, and Nicola Lionetti, Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research, Milan, Italy; Adriana Bonfigli, PhD, ISPE Srl, Milan, Italy; Giambattista Rastrelli, PhD, Kalichem Italia Srl, Botticino Sera, Brescia, Italy; and Andrea Baratto, Unifarco Srl, Santa Giustina, Belluno, Italy

Vegetable-derived, mild and sustainable skin cleansing ingredients are in demand, and this has led to the development of new detergent structures. Described here is a combination of two mild surfactants that fulfils these requirements using the concept of “interrupted soap” to impart mildness. Studies to verify the functional, sensorial and mild characteristics of the new blend are detailed.

From the Archives … Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength

Jun 1, 2014J. Alan Swift, University of Liverpool, Liverpool UK; Surinder P. Chahal and Debra L. Coulson, Croda Colloids Ltd., Ditton, Cheshire UK; Nicholas I. Challoner, Croda Oleochemicals Ltd., Goole, East Yorkshire UK

From the December 2001 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries, this article describes how both bending and abrasion should be tested–along with extension–when evaluating hair strength, as the authors show here in tests of an active developed to increase the strength of bleached hair.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

May 20, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Proposed Method to Evaluate the Microbiological Stability of Cosmetics During Use

May 1, 2014Nadine Bresciani, Valérie Poulet and Nathalie Collard, Anemcoli, Lille, France; Raphaél Dugue, Laboratoire Midac, Loos, France

The authors propose an approach to assess the microbial stability of a product during use, referred to as the Microbiological Use Test (MUT), and apply this analysis in case studies to predict the microbiological risk of commercial products. The described test has been used successfully in the development of cosmetics.

Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties

May 1, 2014Olga Freis, PhD, Gilles Perie and Andreas Rathjens, BASF Beauty Creations/Care Solutions, Pulnoy and Essey-lès-Nancy, France

The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.

Octocrylene Concerns Flag Industry's Attention

Apr 23, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

The industry reacts to a new study published in Contact Dermatitis reviews reports of the UV absorber octocrylene for its potential to cause photo contact allergy.

Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation

Mar 20, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen Labs, Creil, France

SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.