Technology Transfer Sponsored by
a IBR-TCLC (INCI: Squalane (and) Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract) is a product and registered trademark of IBR Ltd., Ramat-Gan, Israel.
b PhytoflORAL TP, a dietary supplement made by IBR Ltd., is a tomato powder rich in phytoene, phytofluene and beta-carotene. PhytoflORAL is a registered trademark of IBR Ltd.
c Litchiderm LS 9704 (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Litchi Chinensis Pericarp Extract) is a product of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Division of Cognis France.
d Lys’lastine (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and), Peucedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract (and) Xanthan Gum) is a trademark of BASF.
e Smartvector UV CE (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (and) Tocopherol (and) Carbomer (and) DNA) is a trademark of BASF.
“The nutricosmetics industry has been struggling to take its fair share of the cosmetics market. It has penetrated heavily only in Japan, parts of Europe (particularly in France) and China. Most launches in other countries did not meet their level of expectations. If one looks at these countries, they share a fundamental belief that ‘you are what you eat,’ and each has a long tradition around the magic of food and its impact on beauty. French, Japanese and Chinese consumers are ready to believe. Oenobiol in France has been around for years and focuses exclusively on nutricosmetics, and consumers are ready to accept that Contrex (a water brand from Nestlé Waters North America) enhances the skin’s radiance.
“This is not the case in most other countries, where nutricosmetics remain at best a peripheral add-on to most cosmetic brands. I believe this is because of difficulties in making the link between a supplement intake and an easily perceivable benefit at the consumer level. I would guess that most people would intuitively agree that taking a resveratrol supplement would help their skin fight against oxidation, for instance, but the impact on the mirror test is still a long way off.
“Although the link between vitamin E intake and tocopherol concentration in the skin has been shown in the past, it has been more difficult to reach an easily perceivable benefit at the consumer level.
“I believe that the real take-off of this industry will not happen in other parts of the world until nutrition supplements can be linked easily to visible benefits. To create that link, developers will have to maximize their chances of success in consumer tests by better understanding the systemic and topical impact of vitamins and other essential compounds such as calcium or magnesium on the skin or the hair. BASF engineered skin models that can be used either for topical applications or systemic applications and are a unique tool to maximize predictability of clinical testing.”
–Serge Rogasik BASF Beauty-Care
Everybody agrees that fruits, vegetables, vitamins and minerals are beneficial to human health. Humans have been eating them since the days of Adam and Eve. The question is: Do fruits, vegetables, vitamins and minerals added to cosmetics have a measurable effect on the health and appearance of skin, hair and nails? To put it another way, do nutricosmetic products—which the Kline Group values as a $1.5 billion global market with 12% growth per annum1—actually feed the skin, or are they merely feeding the youth appetite of an aging consumer?
The search for the science behind nutricosmetics often leads to a blind alley. For example, as this is written in December 2008, the term nutricosmetic yielded not a single “hit” anywhere in all the patents and patent applications on file at the Web site of the US Patent and Trademark Office. Similarly, the Wikipedia page for the term nutricosmetic had been deleted in November. The deletion log contained two explanations. One said there was “no indication that the article may meet the guidelines for inclusion.” The other called the deleted article “blatant advertising.”
Advertising has certainly contributed to the growth of the nutricosmetics market. So has the muscle of big companies. In 2002, cosmetics giant L’Oréal and food products leader Nestlé cooperated to create the Inneov range of nutricosmetic products, attracting follow-up activity at Estée Lauder, Amore Pacific and Shiseido. Many companies, seeing nutricosmetics as a way to add value to their formulations, are competing with their own product lines. For example, the Inneov range, which is used for antiaging, is a skin care product that not only prepares the skin for solar exposure, but also intensifies the tanning process.2
This Bench & Beyond column will look at a few of the nutritional ingredients being added to cosmetics to promote the concept of beauty through a healthy body. Both the claims and the claims support (if any) will be discussed. The column will end with a suggestion about where to find the science behind nutricosmetics.
Inside out or outside in: Nestlé is the world’s largest food conglomerate. Its nutrition research occurs at the Nestlé Research Center (NRC) in Lausanne, Switzerland. In this decade, the NRC has extended its expertise in nutrition research beyond foods and beverages, to nutritional supplements for skin and hair health and beauty. The premise is that the skin is not only nourished on the outside with moisturizing creams and topical solutions, but also with nutrients to nourish from the inside.
Related Topics: Technology Transfer