Microemulsions for Sprayable Delivery and Other Topics: Literature Findings

Apr 1, 2010 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Title: Microemulsions for Sprayable Delivery and Other Topics: Literature Findings
patentsx literaturex fish DNA fragmentsx antiwrinklex skinx soy peptidesx DHA efficacy ofx skin lighteningx silicone foamingx detergencyx
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Keywords: patents | literature | fish DNA fragments | antiwrinkle | skin | soy peptides | DHA efficacy of | skin lightening | silicone foaming | detergency

Abstract: This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including fish DNA fragments for antiwrinkle skin care, soy peptides in cosmeceuticals, improvements in the efficacy of DHA, organo-sulfur compounds for skin lightening, and silicone foaming and detergency, among others.

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C Fox, Technicall speaking—Microemulsions for sprayable delivery and other topics: Literature findings, Cosm & Toil 125(4) 18-22 (Apr 2010)

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This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including fish DNA fragments for antiwrinkle skin care, soy peptides in cosmeceuticals, improvements in the efficacy of DHA, organo-sulfur compounds for skin lightening, and silicone foaming and detergency, among others.

Skin and Skin Care

Inhibiting melanin with thiazolamine: Shiseido Company Ltd. has disclosed thiazolamine derivatives or oxazolamine derivatives with melanin production-inhibitory activities. Also disclosed are skin lightening cosmetics containing the compounds; for example, 4,5-dihydro-4,4-dimethyl-N-phenyl-2-thiazolamine was prepared and tested in vitro for melanin production-inhibiting activities.

Soy peptides in cosmeceuticals: Sekine et al. have published on the production and skin permeation of soy derived peptides (SP). The effects of SP on type I collagen were evaluated to examine their potential for cosmeceuticals using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). A marked increase in type I collagen with SP application and a further increase with the simultaneous application of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VC-PMg) were shown. These effects were dependent upon the application concentration of the SP.

Also, amino acids such as glutamine and glutamic acid (GLU) entrapped in SP were found to easily permeate the skin, whereas the peptides GLU-GLU and GLU-GLU-GLU seldom permeated. However, an adjustment of the pH to that of amino acids and/or addition of l-menthol markedly increased the skin permeation of SP.

Picardin/oxybenzone interaction: Gu et al. have disclosed the in vitro permeation characterization of the repellent active picaridin and the sunscreen active oxybenzone. The authors performed a series of in vitro diffusion studies to evaluate the transmembrane permeation of picaridin and oxybenzone across human epidermis and a poly(dimethylsiloxane) (PDMS) membrane. The permeation of picaridin and oxybenzone across human epidermis was suppressed when both active ingredients were used concurrently. Increasing concentrations of the test compounds further reduced the permeation percentage of picaridin and oxybenzone.

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Footnotes

a Eusolex 9020 (INCI: Butyl Dibenzoylmethane) is a product of Merck, Darmstadt, Germany.
b Eusolex 2292 (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) is a product of Merck, Darmstadt, Germany.
c Corapan TQ (INCI: Diethylhexyl 2,6 Naphthalate) is a product of Symrise, Holzminden, Germany.
d RonaCare AP (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate) is a product of EMD Chemicals/Rona, Gibbstown, N.J., USA.

Biography: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Charles Fox

The belated Charles Fox was an independent consultant to the cosmetics and personal care industry. Formerly the director of product development for the personal products division of Warner-Lambert Company, he was also a past recipient of the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers Award and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Medal Award. He also served as president of the SCC.

Formula 1. Hair styling composition8

Sorbitol, 70% 2.00% w/w
Propylene glycol 6.60
Diglycerin 0.50
Hydrogenated castor oil PEG-8 esters  2.20
2-Alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolium betaine 1.60
Isostearic acid 0.70
Trimethylsilyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxane 1.40
Methacryloyl ethyl betaine/acrylates copolymer (Yukaformer 301, Mitsubishi Petrochemical) 2.00
Disodium EDTA dihydrate 0.03
Ethanol 10.00
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.10
Xanthan gum 0.10
Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.30
Phenoxyethanol 0.30
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Dimethylpolysiloxane, 6 cs 2.20
Dimethylpolysiloxane, 20 cs 7.00
Methylphenylpolysiloxane  2.20
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.00
Polyoxypropylene butyl ether 6.60
Aminomethylpropanol 0.30
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 2. W/O eye makeup emulsion9

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM 90, Evonik Degussa) 3.00% w/w
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer (KP 545, Shin-Etsu Chemical) 24.00
Dimethicone (KF 9012, Shin-Etsu Chemical) 2.00
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (KF 995, Shin-Etsu Chemical) 3.00
Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate (Salacos 816T, Nisshin Oillio) 0.50
Synthetic fluorphlogopile (PDM 20L, Topy Industries) 5.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 3. UVA w/o emulsion10

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM 90, Evonik Degussa) 3.00% w/w
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34, Evonik Degussa) 1.50
Butylphthalamide (and) isopropylphthalamide (Pelemol BIP, Phoenix) 5.00
Dimethyl isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI, Croda) 5.00
Mineral oil 8.00
Ethylhexyl stearate (Tegosoft OS, Evonik Degussa) 5.00
Cyclomethicone (and) aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate (Gilugel SIL 5, Giulini) 5.00
Preservative 1.00
Sodium chloride  0.50
EDTA  0.10
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 4. Shower cleanser15

Sodium laureth sulfate (Texapon N70, Cognis) 12.00% w/w
Cocamidopropyl betaine (Dehyton PS, Cognis) 9.00
Coco-glucoside (Plantacare 818, Cognis) 2.00
Polyquaternium-7 (Conditioner P7, 3V Group) 1.00
Panthenol 0.20
Glycol distearate (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and) cocamide MEA (and) laureth-10 (Euperlan PK810, Cognis) 2.00
Styrene/acrylates copolymer (Acusol OP 301, Rohm and Haas) 2.00
Vitamin E 0.20
Porous polyamide beads 0.50
Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
Water (aqua) (and) Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil (and) xanthan gum (Coconut milk, Solabia) 0.20
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

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