Patent Picks—Cocoa Polyphenol, Navy Bean, Ginseng Berry, Anti-tyrosinase Esters and More in Skin Pigmentation

Feb 5, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Cosmetics & Toiletries editors
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Title: Patent Picks—Cocoa Polyphenol, Navy Bean, Ginseng Berry, Anti-tyrosinase Esters and More in Skin Pigmentation
skin whiteningx antioxidantx botanicalx skin rednessx acnex tyrosinase inhibitorx whiteningx activex anti-agingx
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Keywords: skin whitening | antioxidant | botanical | skin redness | acne | tyrosinase inhibitor | whitening | active | anti-aging

Abstract: Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to skin pigmentation, including whitening treatments and those for redness reduction, among others.

Market Data

  • Peptides are spreading beyond their core facial care market; melanin-activating peptides (MAPs) are gaining momentum in self-tanning.
  • Self-tanning accounts for only 5% of the global sun care market.
  • Self-tanning is restricted to developed markets, with North America and Western Europe making up almost 80% of total sales.
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Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions to address skin pigmentation, including whitening treatments and redness-reducing compounds, among others.

Novel compound with skin-whitening, anti-oxidizing and PPAR activities
U.S. Patent Application 20140023603
Publication date: Jan. 23, 2014
Assignee: Pusan National University Industry-University Cooperation Foundation

Described herein is a novel compound having skin-whitening, anti-oxidizing and PPAR activities, and medical uses thereof. The compound is selected from the group consisting of (Z)-5-(4-hydroxybenzylidene)thiazolidine-2,4-dione; (Z)-5-(2,4-dihydroxybenzylidene)thiazolidine-2,4-dione; and (Z)-5-(3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzylidene)thiazolidine-2,4-dione. By suppressing tyrosinase, it is useful for skin-whitening pharmaceutical or cosmetic products. Additionally, it imparts antioxidant activities for the prevention and treatment of skin aging. It also exhibits PPAR activities, in particular, PPARα and PPARγ activities, and is useful for use in pharmaceutical compositions or health foods that are effective for the prevention and treatment of obesity, metabolic disease or cardiovascular disease.

Navy bean and other botanicals for redness reduction
U.S. Patent Application 20140017181
Publication date: Jan. 16, 2014
Inventors: M. Hines, T. Florence and D. Gan

Disclosed in this patent is a method for treating hyperpigmentation by topically applying, to hyperpigmented skin, an effective amount of a composition comprising navy bean extract. This patent also relates generally to botanical extracts to reduce the redness associated with acne lesions, improve skin clarity through dermal remodeling, and protect the skin from additional acne breakouts. In particular, compositions disclosed include: Arctium lappa (burdock) root extract, Epilobium angustifolium (Canadian willowherb) extract, Pinus sylvestris bark extract, Ribes nigrum (black currant) leaf extract, Peumus boldus (boldo) leaf extract, Spiraea ulmaria (meadowsweet) extract, Cystoseira amentacea/Caespitosa brachycarpa extract, hydrolyzed soy protein, navy bean extract, mushroom extract, or any combination thereof.

Tyrosinase-inhibiting hydroxybenzyl and hydroxypyranonemethyl esters
European Patent EP2428577
Publication date: Jan. 22, 2014
Assignee: Eastman Chemical Co.

According to these inventors, tyrosinase inhibitors that are more bioavailable and efficacious present enhanced potential for noticeable brightening benefits without causing skin irritation. Other likely benefits would include ease of use, improved shelf-life and decreased frequency of application. This invention provides a method for preparing such compounds. Esters of substituted hydroxyaryl or hydroxypyranone methanols are described here, which reduce melanin formation.

Ketoconazole and sulforaphane for skin-lightening
U.S. Patent Application 20140030201
Publication date: Jan. 30, 2014
Inventors: R.S. Ginger and M.J. Sandel

This invention relates to a synergistic combination of ketoconazole and sulforaphane for use in skin lightening, which acts by inhibiting pigment production, as shown in in B16 monolayer cultures. Thus the composition, when applied topically or imbibed over an appropriate length of time in vivo, would be expected to cause skin lightening, or to reduce blemishes and/or hyperpigmented spots and/or solar lentigines, leading to an improvement in evenness of skin tone.

Ginseng berry extract for blood circulation, skin whitening
European Patent Application EP2689784
Publication date: Jan. 29, 2014
Assignee: AmorePacific Corp.

Described in this patent is a composition containing ginseng berry extract as the active ingredient for facilitating blood circulation, preventing vascular aging, treating vascular inflammation, improving skin beauty and more. According to the inventors, the active facilitates nitric oxide (NO) generation in endothelial cells, providing a variety of effects including antioxidative benefits, the biosynthesis of collagen, inhibiting skin aging, reducing wrinkles through the inhibition of MMP-1, inhibiting melanin synthesis and providing a skin moisturizing effect, among others.

Cocoa polyphenol for depigmentation, anti-aging
U.S. Patent 8637093
Publication date: Jan. 28, 2014
Assignee: Barry Callebaut AG

This patent discloses a composition for topical application to the skin comprising a cocoa polyphenol extract in combination with an SUS-rich fat, wherein the cocoa polyphenol extract is present in an amount less than 15% w/w based on the weight of the SUS-rich fat. As is generally known, SUS refers to triglyceride fats having S groups at the 1- and 3-positions of the glycerol moiety, and U groups at the 2-position of the glycerol moiety. The composition and extract may increase skin elasticity and thickness, have an anti-wrinkle effect, cause the depigmentation of age spots, improve skin renewal, and/or reduce skin dryness. Preferably, the cocoa polyphenol extract is obtainable by the extraction of non-defatted cocoa beans that have not been fermented or been allowed to ferment for more than three days.

Burretiodendron hsienmu for hyperpigmentation, anti-aging
U.S. Patent 8636989
Publication date: Jan. 28, 2014
Assignee: Mary Kay Inc.

These inventors have developed topical skin compositions including an extract from Burretiodendron hsienmu to treat fine lines or wrinkles, oily skin or excessive sebum production, and skin having dark spots (e.g., liver spots, age spots, etc.), melasma and hyperpigmentation. In one instance, for example, disclosed is a topical skin composition comprising Burretiodendron hsienmu as the first MMP-1 inhibitor; a second MMP-1 inhibitor, such as an extract from Bauhinia brachycarpa var. cavaleriei; and a third MMP-1 inhibitor, such as an extract from Tetracentron sinense. Further, the composition can be used to reduce oxidative damage in skin cells, which can provide both a treatment and protection function from reactive oxygen species and the like.

Method for preparing recombinant human tyrosinase
WIPO Patent Application WO/2014/016118
Publication date: Jan. 30, 2014
Assignee: Unilever and Conopco, Inc. (D/B/A Unilever)

Disclosed in this patent is a method for preparing enzymatically active recombinant human tyrosinase by cloning and over-expressiing (recombinant) human tyrosinase using insect cells. According to the inventors, this approach addresses the need for a better process to prepare human tyrosinase in high yield with superior purity and relevant enzymatic activity. Commercial sources of recombinant human tyrosinase are available but the present inventors have found its enzymatic activity to be low, compared to equal amounts of human melanocytic lysate. The new method thus enables the effective screening for potential skin-lightening actives.