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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 7 of 11

Water (aqua)

qs 100.00

Percutaneous Absorption
Formulation and the topical delivery of alpha-tocopherol: Rangarajan et al. report on the effect of formulation on the topical delivery of alpha-tocopherol.11 The objective of this research was to investigate the effect of concentration and delivery system on skin permeation of alpha-tocopherol (alpha-T). Also, the addition of sunscreens and oleic acid on alpha-T permeation was studied using an in vitro micro-Yucatan pig skin model. Various delivery systems of alpha-T (1%) were formulated, which included simple solutions, gels, emulsions, and microemulsions. The experimental design chosen for this study was a statistical randomized complete block design. The results showed that alpha-T delivery was proportional to its concentration. The hydro-alcoholic gel delivered significantly higher amounts of alpha-T into the receptor than the other gels used. A microemulsion containing isopropyl myristate emerged as the best delivery system for alpha-T among all the systems studied.
Pig skin is a suitable in vitro model for studying the permeation of alpha-T and possibly other antioxidants, though in vivo experiments in humans are required to further corroborate the data.

Antiperspirants/Deodorants
Visible capsules in clear formulations: The Gillette Company in a recent patent discloses clear personal care compositions containing visible capsules.12 The composition of a clear antiperspirant gel composition is shown in Formula 7.

Formula 7. Clear antiperspirant gel with colored particles12 
Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex Gly 29.00%
Calcium chloride 1.63
Ethyl alcohol 10.92
Propylene glycol 2.98
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone 9.52
Dimethicone 1.74
Dimethicone (and) trisiloxane 6.09
Colored capsules 0.35
Fragrance (parfum) 0.64
Water (aqua)