Methods & Processes

Sustainable Ingredient Science: Amazonian Aguaje and Pequi Palm Oils

Apr 1, 2015Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, Dell’Acqua Consulting, Jersey City, NJ USA

The food and nutrition supply chain is often the first entry for “super plants” from the Amazon to the market, but other applications are increasing, especially in personal care and cosmetics. The present article profiles two Amazonian palm oils, aguaje and pequi, in terms of their sustainability, chemistry and application.

Modeling the Dynamics of Hair Movement

Jan 16, 2015

The dynamics of hair movement are of particular interest to product developers because they are important to consumers. In relation, computer animation and 3D modeling expert Norman Badler, PhD, of the University of Pennsylvania, will discuss ways to model the dynamics of hair movement during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

Formulators Can Avoid Quality Disasters

Dec 10, 2014Howard Baker, Product Integrity Laboratory LLC

There are a number of things that cosmetic chemists can do to avoid problems in production and ultimately in the marketplace. In the laboratory, almost anything is possible, but production life is very different.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

Nov 6, 2014

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

Assessing Beauty By Facial Topography, Color and Symmetry

Oct 1, 2014

The notion of “aging gracefully” no longer applies, as consumers are constantly judging each other’s facial features to assess their beauty. Here, based on recent studies, it is suggested that facial topography, symmetry and color dictate those assessments. While the cosmetics industry can lessen some of these factors, some are a result of biology or lifestyle.

Practical Foam Science

Sep 23, 2014Steven Abbott, PhD, Steven Abbott TCNF Ltd., Ipswich, and University of Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK

Foam science can be confusing, so the temptation is to formulate by trial and error. However, understanding the science behind key aspects of foam—i.e., elasticity, DLVO Theory stability, Ostwald ripening, draining and antifoams—and applying this will fast-track foam development. These concepts are detailed here.

Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane

Jul 1, 2014Derek McPhee, PhD; Armelle Pin; Lance Kizer, PhD; and Loren Perelman, PhD; Amyris Inc., Emeryville, CA, USA

Commercial use of squalane has been constrained by an inconsistent supply and resulting price volatility, but modern biotechnology has been able to leverage enzyme-catalyzed chemical reactions found in nature coupled with traditional chemical processing steps to create a high-quality source of renewable squalane.

3D Printing 'Popping Up' in Personal Care

May 16, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Three-dimensional (3D) printing is popping up in many fields, including in cosmetics and personal care development; from behind the scenes, in R&D package concept labs, to presentations at in-cosmetics and the April SCS Symposium—even at home, in one former Harvard student's printable cosmetic device concept.

R&D Spending: 'Investment' vs. Expense

May 7, 2014

It's not news that top-performing companies are putting resources into R&D. Interestingly, however, according to the U.S. Commerce Department, if R&D spending were treated as an investment rather than an expense, the overall growth of gross domestic product could be much higher.

Science-based Skin Care in Demand

May 2, 2014

Science-based skin care is not new to the industry, but according to market research firm Diagonal Reports, it's a new demand from consumers. Speakers at the C&T Summit will address means to meet this demand on June 26 and 27. Register now!

Understanding Fragrance Allergy, Is Fragrance-free Always Necessary?

May 1, 2014Garrett Coman and Nicholas Blickenstaff, University of California San Francisco, San Francisco, USA, and University of Utah, Salt Lake City, USA; Ashley Edwards, Touro University, Vallejo, CA, USA; Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California San Francisco, San Francisco, USA

This article reviews studies to diagnose allergic contact dermatitis due to fragrance, including a patch test designed to measure such. Limitations of patch testing, the relevance of fragrance concentration in products, use testing of common consumer products, and dermatologist recommendations to manage fragrance contact allergy also are discussed.

Penn State Develops 3D Model Linking Facial Features to DNA

Mar 25, 2014Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

Researchers at Penn State have developed a three-dimensional model that illustrates connections between the shape of the human face and DNA.

Skin Aging Characteristics of Russian Women

Feb 24, 2014Eve Merinville; Gemma Z. Grennan; Vlad Golounin; Johanna M. Gillbro, PhD; Jacques Mathieu; and Alain Mavon, PhD, Oriflame

There appear to be no published studies on facial aging in Russian women, despite clear interest from the industry in this market. In order to formulate products, it is necessary to understand the end consumer. This article therefore explores a recent study of 203 Russian women and describes their aging specificities versus other, more studied Caucasian populations.

C&T Summit Explores Proteomics to Examine Hair Damage

Feb 10, 2014

Damage to the hair shaft can lead to the breakdown of proteins from the hair, which can provide an early diagnostic for damage before it is manifested at the macro-structural level. Mike Davis will explore this approach during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit this June.

Plant Cell Technology

Jan 13, 2014Giorgio Dell'Acqua, PhD, Freedom Actives Corp.

While plant stem cells initially were marketed for their technological potential, they recently have been identified as an alternative, sustainable mean to produce nature-derived extracts and molecules.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

Jan 13, 2014Chris Dederen, Jennifer Donahue and Cornelis Verboom; Croda, Edison, NJ, USA

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

Role of Photography in Acne Metrics*

Dec 1, 2013Audris Chiang, University of California, Irvine; Farhaan Hafeez, Yale University School of Medicine; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California School of Medicine, San Francisco

To optimally treat acne, an accurate severity assessment is required1 and while visual assessments have relied on text descriptions, lesion counting and photographic methods, an ideal grading system would be more accurate and reproducible. Further, its ease of use, and time and monetary costs are also important. Here, the authors consider different approaches for improved acne assessments using photography.

Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics

Aug 1, 2013Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD; and Giuseppe Calloni, PhD, Freedom Actives Corp.

Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.

How does the My Library tool work?

Jan 1, 2013

The Cosmetics & Toiletries website has a tool called My Library that you can use to save and organize articles for future reference. View this tutorial slideshow to learn how the My Library tool works.

Multiple Emulsions: Applications in Cosmetics

Aug 1, 2008Bhushan P. Sonchal, Shrinivas C. Kothekar and Shamim A. Momin, Institute of Chemical Technology, University of Mumbai

Multiple emulsions and factors affecting their preparation are discussed in this article that also lists the advantages of each of the two main types—w/o/w and o/w/o—and gives examples of each in cosmetic formulations.

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