Chemistry

Alternative Hair Cleansing

Feb 17, 2015

New approaches to hair cleansing range from dry powders and sprays, to creamy cleansers that skip shampooing altogether. In fact, according to Mintel's NPD Database, an increasing number of consumers favor dry shampoo. Carmen Castillo Bucci, of L'Or<é>al USA, will discuss these new approaches to hair cleansing during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

Two Decades of Transfer-resistant Lipstick

Feb 1, 2015Robert Lochhead, PhD, University of Southern Mississippi; and Margaret Lochhead, PhD

It has been two decades since Revlon revolutionized the color cosmetic market by debuting transfer-resistant lipstick. Innovations in transfer resistance and long wear makeup have continued apace, and it certainly appears that advances in this field will continue for the foreseeable future. This article reviews the literature to show the evolution of chemistries and concepts in this prominent market.

The Balancing Act of Multifunctional Cosmetics

Dec 5, 2014

The success of BB creams is undeniable, and it has launched an alphabet-heavy trend in both skin and hair care. However, what challenge does this pose for formulators? During the C&T Summit, Prithwiraj Maitra, PhD, will discuss the challenges of multifunctional products and their components from a material scientist's perspective.

Hair Control Shaping New Markets

Nov 18, 2014

According to research from Diagonal Reports, hair straightening has stirred up today's beauty marketplace. Further, demand for hair control is growing exponentially. In response, Peter Landa of TRI-K will revisit the "knowns" and consider the "unknowns" of hair structure and control technologies during the 2015 Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

Problems with Skin Protectants Part I: A Discussion

Sep 25, 2014Giovanni Pantini, PhD, Studio 24, Milan, Italy

Problems with skin protectants include unsatisfactory performance, poor prospects for improvement, and the lack of methods for evaluation. Such problems are introduced here, while insights in the area of perfluoropolyethers and concepts to push skin protectants to new efficacies will be discussed in follow-up articles.

Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients

Sep 17, 2014Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm Research, Scottsdale, AZ USA

Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.

A Hair Dyeing Solution for the Dye-allergic Consumer

Jun 1, 2014Nicholas Blickenstaff and Garrett Coman, University of California at San Francisco and University of Utah, Salt Lake City; Ashley Edwards, Touro University, Vallejo, California; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California at San Francisco

This article describes how to identify allergic contact dermatitis resulting from hair dye, and outlines prevention principles for those who wish to continue dyeing their hair despite being allergic—with clear implications for those formulating these products. The main sensitizers in hair dye are discussed, along with techniques to minimize exposure to these allergenic substances.

What’s Happening in Hair Damage, Protection and Repair

Jun 1, 2014Robert Lochhead, PhD, and Heather Pearson, The University of Southern Mississippi, Hattiesburg, MS, USA

Hair damage from environmental and cosmetic treatments is a continuing concern. Efforts are under way to understand hair degradation and devise means to protect and repair hair from the damage. This short review is an attempt to summarize recent advances toward protecting and repairing human hair.

Review and Modern Advances of Retinoids for Cosmetics

May 1, 2014Steven Isaacman, PhD, and Michael Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC, Great Neck, NY, USA; Peter Smith, New York University, New York City, USA

For skin cancer, skin aging and acne, retinoids have proven both preventive and therapeutic. Successful efforts toward more bioavailable vitamin A derivatives and retinoid formulations have increased their use for cosmetic benefits. Recent work to further optimize retinoids and reduce their side effects has yielded a new generation of promising molecules, described here.

Phenoxyethanol as a Safe and Important Preservative in Personal Care

Apr 23, 2014John Krowka, PhD, and Linda Loretz, PhD, Personal Care Products Council; Karolina Brzuska and Jose Filipe Almeida, PhD, Cosmetics Europe; Megan Diehl and Stanley J. Gonsior, The Dow Chemical Company; Andress Johnson, PhD, and Stephané Sellam, Thor Specialties; and Steffen Bade, PhD, and Samantha Champ, BASF

The effective preservation of personal care products and cosmetics is vitally important to inhibit microbial growth. Phenoxyethanol has a long history as an effective preservative, with well-documented human and environmental safety profiles. This is a valuable option in formulators’ and microbiologists’ toolboxes for safe and effective control of microbial growth, as is reviewed here.

Under-eye Elasticity Through Film-forming with Betty Yu, PhD

Feb 21, 2014Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Betty Yu, PhD, and her team at Living Proof have entered the skin care market with a flowable silicone polymer technology that cross-links upon activation to form a breathable, invisible film designed to contour and tighten the eye area, reducing the appearance of under-eye bags.

Armoring Enamel: New Paradigms for Combating Dental Decay

Feb 21, 2014Steven Isaacman, PhD, and Michael Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; and Kent Kirshenbaum, PhD, and Peter Smith, New York University

To protect enamel, new mechanisms in classic oral care continue to be uncovered, while modern advances mimic and enhance natural protective systems. New approaches to enamel repair include augmenting natural remineralization by creating reservoirs of ions and applying saliva biomimetics. Such technologies, described here, represent significant advances for repairing and protecting teeth noninvasively.

Lipsticks: How They Have Changed and Where They Are Going

Jan 15, 2014Rachel Mallon, Nunzio Ripamonti and Natasha Williams O’Hanlon, PhD; Oriflame Research and Development Ltd., Bray, Ireland

The composition of lipstick formulations and means of manufacturing and filling them have progressed significantly in the last 100 years. This article reviews the most notable developments in methods of production, innovations in both functional and active ingredients, and breakthroughs in processing. In addition, it explores what the future could hold for lipsticks.

Frontiers of Science Supports Cosmetic Research

Dec 18, 2013

On Dec. 12, 2013, at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' (SCC) Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase, Rachel Grabenhofer, presented the Frontiers of Science Award to Joseph Schwarcz, PhD, from McGill University, on behalf of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Peptidomimetics for Cosmetic Applications

Sep 1, 2013Steven Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; Michael Isaacman, University of California Santa Barbara; and Sung Bin Y. Shin, PhD, Avon Products

Peptidomimetics, or synthetic bioactive peptides, have been developed that mimic the biological functions of peptides and proteins but overcome many of these challenges and limitations. Further, due to their wide range of activity, synthetic feasibility and ease of handling, they have played a vital part in biological research. This column will discuss the potential application of these short chain oligomers in cosmetics and personal care.

Chinese Licorice Extract for Anti-aging, Antibacterial and Breath-freshening Effects

Aug 1, 2013Stefan Gafner, PhD, Tom’s of Maine

This article reviews in vitro studies that have found Chinese licorice extract to impart potent antibacterial and soothing properties, which make it an interesting candidate for applications in oral and personal care. Further, a clinical study is described in brief, assessing the ability of a supercritical CO2 extract from Chinese licorice to impart breath-freshening properties.

Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics

Aug 1, 2013Paola Ziosi, Stefano Manfredini, Alberta Vandini and Silvia Vertuani, University of Ferrara; and Massimo Fraternali, Akema Fine Chemicals

In recent years, the safety of traditional preservatives has been called into question. Therefore, there is a need for alternatives that are effective, safe and sustainable—and that are non-controversial. In response, the present work investigates a mixture of caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol, which is shown to provide antimicrobial activity in various skin and hair care formulations.

Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: A Review

Apr 1, 2012Xiao Wu, PhD, College of Pharmacy, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI, USA

As the commercial applications of nanotechnology have increased in the past decade, a number of nanoparticles are now being used in cosmetic products with optimized sensory attributes and consumer-perceivable benefits. This article reviews various forms of nanoparticles used in the cosmetic industry, discussing their properties, interactions with the skin and potential health effects.

Improving the Solubility of Benzoyl Peroxide: A Review

Jul 1, 2011James Ziming Sun, PhD, Diversapack of California; and Alex Wang Sun, Tufts University

In this review, the authors examine studies relating to the solubility of BPO. The clinical trials discussed show that compared with suspended BPO, BPO solubilized by dimethyl isosorbide reduced P. acnes and decreased both inflammatory lesions/irritation and the emergence of antibiotic-resistant P. acnes strains. This reveals the importance of solubilizing BPO for improved efficacy and safety.

Developments in Ceramide Identification, Synthesis, Function and Nomenclature

Feb 1, 2009Mike Farwick, Peter Lersch and Betty Santonnat, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; Kees Korevaar, Cosmoferm B.V.; and Anthony Vincent Rawlings, AVR Consulting Ltd.

Advances have been made in recent years to better understand ceramides, as the authors describe here. However, since not all ceramides have the same structure, the nomenclature in the literature and on product labels needs clarification. The Personal Care Products Council recently agreed upon new nomenclature based on four molecular structures, which the authors also discuss.

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