Chemistry

Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients

Sep 17, 2014Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm Research, Scottsdale, AZ USA

Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.

A Hair Dyeing Solution for the Dye-allergic Consumer

Jun 1, 2014Nicholas Blickenstaff and Garrett Coman, University of California at San Francisco and University of Utah, Salt Lake City; Ashley Edwards, Touro University, Vallejo, California; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California at San Francisco

This article describes how to identify allergic contact dermatitis resulting from hair dye, and outlines prevention principles for those who wish to continue dyeing their hair despite being allergic—with clear implications for those formulating these products. The main sensitizers in hair dye are discussed, along with techniques to minimize exposure to these allergenic substances.

What’s Happening in Hair Damage, Protection and Repair

Jun 1, 2014Robert Lochhead, PhD, and Heather Pearson, The University of Southern Mississippi, Hattiesburg, MS, USA

Hair damage from environmental and cosmetic treatments is a continuing concern. Efforts are under way to understand hair degradation and devise means to protect and repair hair from the damage. This short review is an attempt to summarize recent advances toward protecting and repairing human hair.

Review and Modern Advances of Retinoids for Cosmetics

May 1, 2014Steven Isaacman, PhD, and Michael Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC, Great Neck, NY, USA; Peter Smith, New York University, New York City, USA

For skin cancer, skin aging and acne, retinoids have proven both preventive and therapeutic. Successful efforts toward more bioavailable vitamin A derivatives and retinoid formulations have increased their use for cosmetic benefits. Recent work to further optimize retinoids and reduce their side effects has yielded a new generation of promising molecules, described here.

Phenoxyethanol as a Safe and Important Preservative in Personal Care

Apr 23, 2014John Krowka, PhD, and Linda Loretz, PhD, Personal Care Products Council; Karolina Brzuska and Jose Filipe Almeida, PhD, Cosmetics Europe; Megan Diehl and Stanley J. Gonsior, The Dow Chemical Company; Andress Johnson, PhD, and Stephané Sellam, Thor Specialties; and Steffen Bade, PhD, and Samantha Champ, BASF

The effective preservation of personal care products and cosmetics is vitally important to inhibit microbial growth. Phenoxyethanol has a long history as an effective preservative, with well-documented human and environmental safety profiles. This is a valuable option in formulators’ and microbiologists’ toolboxes for safe and effective control of microbial growth, as is reviewed here.

Under-eye Elasticity Through Film-forming with Betty Yu, PhD

Feb 21, 2014Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Betty Yu, PhD, and her team at Living Proof have entered the skin care market with a flowable silicone polymer technology that cross-links upon activation to form a breathable, invisible film designed to contour and tighten the eye area, reducing the appearance of under-eye bags.

Armoring Enamel: New Paradigms for Combating Dental Decay

Feb 21, 2014Steven Isaacman, PhD, and Michael Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; and Kent Kirshenbaum, PhD, and Peter Smith, New York University

To protect enamel, new mechanisms in classic oral care continue to be uncovered, while modern advances mimic and enhance natural protective systems. New approaches to enamel repair include augmenting natural remineralization by creating reservoirs of ions and applying saliva biomimetics. Such technologies, described here, represent significant advances for repairing and protecting teeth noninvasively.

Lipsticks: How They Have Changed and Where They Are Going

Jan 15, 2014Rachel Mallon, Nunzio Ripamonti and Natasha Williams O’Hanlon, PhD; Oriflame Research and Development Ltd., Bray, Ireland

The composition of lipstick formulations and means of manufacturing and filling them have progressed significantly in the last 100 years. This article reviews the most notable developments in methods of production, innovations in both functional and active ingredients, and breakthroughs in processing. In addition, it explores what the future could hold for lipsticks.

Frontiers of Science Supports Cosmetic Research

Dec 18, 2013

On Dec. 12, 2013, at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' (SCC) Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase, Rachel Grabenhofer, presented the Frontiers of Science Award to Joseph Schwarcz, PhD, from McGill University, on behalf of Cosmetics & Toiletries.