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Cosmeceutical peptides: Lupo has published a review on cosmeceutical peptides. The desire to improve skin aging has resulted in a plethora of products designed to improve the appearance beyond simply camouflaging with cosmetics. Many ingredients were added to these products based on theoretical benefits discovered from in vitro studies on wound healing and other metabolic processes. The object of these studies is to help the practicing dermatologist who is often the source of information for patients regarding the benefits of available cosmeceuticals. This article is a compilation of studies published on the effects and the practical applications of peptides as topical agents for skin improvement. It includes science showing peptide cosmeceuticals to have potential to improve the appearance of aging skin.It is important to remember, however, that for the benefit to be realized, the final product must be stable in formula, absorbed into the skin and biologically active at the target for clinical benefits. This article will provide dermatologists and formulating chemists with more background to answer pressing questions on this subject.
Sodium α-tocopheryl phosphate UV protection: Ohmori has published on the protective effect of sodium α-tocopoheryl phosphate for UV-induced skin damage.2 It is well-established that UV irradiation causes photodamage, including erythema and immunosuppression. This photodamage is mainly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydroxyl radical, nitric oxide and peroxynitrite. Although dl-tocopherol (VE) has been used to prevent photo-damage by its antioxidative activity, VE is insoluble in water and unstable against oxidation. Therefore, in the described study, the author examined the effect of sodium dl-α-tocopheryl phosphate (VEP), a newly synthesized water-soluble and stable VE derivative, on UV-induced photodamage. VEP was enzymically cleaved to generate VE for the study.
This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, but you can purchase the full-text version.