SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase Report

By: Katie Schaefer

Posted: December 16, 2008

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Arch Personal Care Products also presented the Hans A. Schaeffer Award to Michel Daley, PhD, and David W. Koenig, PhD, for their paper titled, Removal of Microbial Pathogens from Skin Using Magnet. This award recognizes the most innovative paper. Finally, the last award at the luncheon was the Joseph P. Ciaudelli Award, sponsored by Croda Inc., which was given to Karin Keis, PhD, Craig L. Huemmer and Yash K. Kamath, PhD, for their paper titled, Effect of Oil Films on Moisture Vapor Absorption on Human Hair. This award recognizes the best article submitted to the Journal of Cosmetic Science on hair care.

In addition, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine group publisher Dave Brambert presented Buddy Ratner, PhD, with the Frontiers of Science Award Lecture. Attendees adjourned into the concurrent afternoon sessions, featuring both in vitro alternatives and multicultural hair care technology.

In Vitro Alternatives
During the afternoon session on in vitro alternatives, moderator Mindy S. Goldstein, PhD, of Esteé Lauder, introduced talks ranging from the activity of glycokines, as measured by a noninvasive, non-touch "elasticity" technology, anin vitro stressor model to measure cellular senesce and a new study focused on the papillary dermis to target aging; to in vitro evaluations to evaluate UVA protection, based on FDA guidelines and a novel ex vivo pig skin organ culture model to test cosmetic materials for safety and efficacy. 

Cell elasticity and cohesion: Denise Gabriele, vice president of sales and marketing for Sederma Inc., introduced studies on glycokines—sugar molecules that have been shown to exhibit specific messenger activity and improve tissue cohesion. Fitting with the session's theme, the material's efficacy was measured via the company's patented Aeroflexmeter, a device mounted and positioned to send compressed air to the skin. When the air blows against the skin, the skin flexes and when the air stops, the skin returns to its initial state. The device uses a laser to measure the skin's elasticity before, during and after being exposed to the compressed air. This model, according to Gabriele, can be used to test materials targeted to increase skin's elasticity and described the device as measuring "resistance to deformation." "Older skin was found to have no resistance [to the air], whereas younger skin is more taught," said Gabriele. She added that the device also can look at the displacement of water in skin. In the test setup, glycokines were tested and found to repair damaged skin tissue by increasing skin elasticity; corneometer and moisture meter measurements also were taken. Attendees were interested in this model of testing product efficacy. Gabriele conceded that the opportunites for its use were only just begnning to be realized.

Stress-induced senescence: Following Gabriele, Karl Lintner, PhD, technical advisor to Croda/Sederma, described methods to study cellular senescence in vitro. To set the stage, Lintner introduced the two primary approaches to aging. "You can reduce aging by preventing stressors, or you can reverse/slow the signs of aging," said Lintner, who chose stress as the focus of his in vitro work. According to Lintner, to study the mechanisms of aging, several stress-induced premature senescence (SIPS) methods are used. These range from monolayer cell culture studies, fibroblast lifespan and DNA arrays to measure gene activity, to ex vivo studies on human skin explants. Specifically, genes can artificially be aged by hydrogen peroxide treatments, UV irradiation and glucocorticoid treatment.