Suppliers' Day Asks: What Does ‘Green’ Really Mean?

May 19, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries
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Title: Suppliers' Day Asks: What Does ‘Green’ Really Mean?
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Personal care chemists, formulators, suppliers, and marketing and sales reps all gathered under one “green umbrella” for the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ (SCC) Suppliers’ Day 2009. The theme for 2009 was “Innovate for a Greener World,” and many of the raw material suppliers present at the exhibition delivered products on this theme. And sailing out into unchartered waters of innovation were companies debuting advanced products such as a symbiotic pre/probiotic complex, a UV-boosting sunscreen stabilizer, encapsulation for natural formulations, and an ethylene oxide-free emulsifying system for cosmetic wipes.

Before attendees crowded the show floor at the New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, members of the press gathered down the street at Croda Inc.’s headquarters for its annual press breakfast. At the breakfast, the company demonstrated the color deposition ability of its Crodofos HCE (INCI: Oleth-5 Phosphate (and) Dioleyl Phosphate) in a 10-minute hair color. Jena Kinney, marketing manager for Croda Inc., informed attendees that due to the economic recession, women are using at-home hair color more often and expecting long-lasting, vibrant hair color. According to the company, its ingredient enhances dye deposition by helping the tint and developer to react more slowly, enabling more of the dye to penetrate the hair. For the first time, the company conducted a live demonstration of the ingredient in a red hair dye on one of its employees during the presentation. Ten minutes after the vibrant red hair dye was applied, the employee walked away with a shiny, rich head of red hair.

Hoards of suppliers and manufacturers then gathered at the Raritan Center for the exposition. The event was so popular that the line for registration extended down the block, and suppliers surely brought their A game, delivering the best of what ‘green’ formulating had to offer.

On the processing side of ‘green’ formulating, Eastman Chemical Company showcased its biocatalytic process, a formulation strategy that allows chemists to work solvent-free and avoid even trace levels of undesirable solvents in cosmetic products. According to the company, the process eliminates the environmental impact of disposing of process solvents as waste. The single-step, solvent-free biocatalytic esterification reaction yields product that is 90% pure without further downstream processing, saving time and energy and reducing material use.

Continuing the sustainable talk was West Africa Trade Hub with its demonstration on West African Shea Butter. The extraction of this shea butter in West Africa benefits the communities where it is harvested, since some of the proceeds go to the African women who harvest and hand process the shea nuts and butter.

Moving over to ‘green’ ingredients, Biosil Technologies Inc. presented a marine solution for skin pigmentation developed by Gelyma, a supplier based in Marseilles, France. Lightoceane (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Halidrys Siloquosa Extract) is an extract of brown seaweed that is said to down-regulate skin pigmentation.

Also drawing from the sea was Akott with its debut of an active coral to enhance radiance and suppleness while promoting a better skin texture and more uniform and fresh complexion. Akoshine Active Coral (Pending INCI: Corallium Rubrum Powder) contains calcium, sodium, magnesium, iron, copper, zinc and manganese, which allows it to play a role in cutaneous functions.

Provital also contributed to the natural ingredients debuted at the show with its standardized natural complex for cellulite prevention and treatment. Drenalip is a combination of astragalus, butcher’s broom, lemon and golden rod that is said to stave off the formation of new fat cells while reducing existing adipocytes and enhancing blood flow.

Botaneco presented Hydresia G2 (INCI: Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes (and) Glycerin), its Ecocert-compliant aqueous dispersion of intact oleosomes, isolated by a solvent-free process from the seeds of the safflower. In comparison to the company’s Hydresia, Hydresia G2 consists of 60% oleosomes in water and glycerin, with a globally accepted preservative and stabilizing system to increase formulation breadth. The dispersion is said to moisturize and rebuild skin barrier.

Natural moisturization also was addressed by Cosmetochem International AG with Herbamilk, its line of plant milks that incorporate plant oils and extracts to soften and moisturize skin and hair through shampoos, shower products, liquid soaps, skin cleansers and wet wipes.

Induchem has joined the ‘green’ trend by developing a new generation of Natural Unispheres suitable for ‘green’ cosmetics. These carbohydrate-based spherical beads, used as visual cosmetic carriers, are based on bamboo-derived cellulose and xylitol. The beads are white and can be colored with a wide range of natural pigments.

Although there were many suppliers exhibiting natural products, there were a number of notable, innovative ingredients as well. Solabia introduced a symbiotic pre/probiotic complex for the optimization of the cutaneous ecoflora, the strengthening of biological defenses and the improvement of the skin radiance by a restructuring and smoothing effect. Ecoskin (INCI: Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide (and) Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice (and) Maltodextrin (and) Lactobacillus) is made of α-glucooligosaccharides, plant juice rich in β- fructooligosaccharides and lactobacillus probiotic bacteria.

Evonik Industries focused more on sensory with its introduction of Tego Wipe Flex, a liquid and highly concentrated ethylene oxide-free emulsifying system suitable for o/w impregnating liquids for cosmetic wipes. The technology can modify the basic pleasant feel of an impregnating liquid and allow the preparation of versatile wipe products offering different skin afterfeel benefits such as smoothness, softness, cleansing and makeup removal.

BASF turned excess skin oil to radiant shine with its debut of Mat-XS (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Orthisiphon Stamineus Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Xanthan Gum). The ingredient reportedly enhaces a radiant complexion and reduces the appearance or oiliness and imperfections in the skin. In four weeks, the ingredient makes the skin surface appear more even and reduces the appearance of pores and rough skin texture.

Another skin issue, redness, was tackled by Pentapharm. Regu-CEA (INCI: Spent Grain Wax (and) Isomerized Linoleic Acid (and) Behenic Acid (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) was designed to reduce skin redness, repair irritation, prevent vasodilation, inhibit inflammation, inhibit the release of proteases, prevent damage to the skin structure and soothe skin.

As summer approaches, sun protection is a topic of greater interest among formulators. Symrise discussed SymHelios 1031, an ingredient that protects the skin against long-term damage induced by environmental factors, particularly ultraviolet UVB radiation. The ingredient binds to the transmitter protein aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), preventing the protein from binding with toxins, such as those induced by UVB rays; thus interfering with the ability of AhR to transport toxins deeper into the cells and preventing cellular damage.

Also in the sun care pathway, HallStar introduced a sunscreen photostabilizer that optimizes UV filter performance. SolaStay S1 (Proposed INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene) quenches the singlet excited states of UV filters including avobenzone and octinoxate. According to the company, UV filters like avobenzone break down and lose their effectiveness when exposed to UV radiation. To prevent this, the photostabilizer quenches the singlet excited states to slow down photodegradation.

With all the work covering both days of Suppliers’ Day, attendees were in need of some serious relaxation. Following the first day’s exhibition, tired feet made their way to the Hilton Garden Inn for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine and Global Cosmetic Industry magazine’s annual Supplier Social. The soiree was once again packed with industry professionals buzzing on the latest trends, newest technologies and people gossip while they sipped refreshments and snacked on an assortment of gourmet appetizers.

At the exposition and during the social, Allured Books collected business cards to raffle off two copies each of its latest book launches. During the social, four winners were announced and presented with copies of Biologically Active Ingredients: Their Mechanisms and Proof of Efficacy and Microorganisms and Cosmetics--both hot off the press--for addition to their libraries.

Later that evening, as feet began to liven, attendees flocked to the Sheraton Raritan for Grant Industries’ Casino Night. Blackjack, roulette and craps tables fluttered with gamblers putting it all on the line with play money while other party-goers sipped cocktails and danced to the disc jockey in the background.

Despite the downturned economy, Suppliers’ Day flourished, providing the opportunity for its attendees to gain information and conduct business. The ‘green’ umbrella inspired suppliers to unveil natural ingredients, while other focused on technology in other fields. Attendees will gather at the same location next year under a different topic but focused on the same goal: to improve the personal care industry.