Genomics, Superbugs and More in Cosmeceuticals

Posted: March 12, 2009

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The morning session ended with a discussion on green fragrances by Steve Hermann, president of Diffusion LLC. According to Hermann, the movement toward green and natural personal care began with the book Silent Spring. After that, the number of laws governing cosmetics reportedly grew sharply. The greening of fragrances is a challenging task due to their volatile nature, a great diversity of chemicals and low molecular weight.  Hermann concluded by offering the current status of green fragrances.

The second session of the day focused on antiaging, beginning with a presentation by Evelyne Bismuth, PhD, of EMD Chemicals Inc., on an antioxidant that provides skin with protection against free radicals along with the additional benefit of high stability. She introduced her company's measurement of Radical Skin Protection Factor (RSF). Bismuth concluded that the antioxidant exhibits the same amount of efficacy is smaller concentrations.

The discussion moved from external aging to internal aging with a presentation by Helen Knaggs, vice president of global R&D at Nu Skin Enterprises, on a novel mechanism behind skin aging. Knaggs worked with researchers at Purdue University to identify arNOX or nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide oxinase. This hydroquinone oxidase was found to increase with age in sweat, urine, plasma and sebum and is present on the surface of all cells. The researchers found the age-related material to have no relationship with sun exposure. Knaggs and fellow researchers are looking to mechanism for how arNox acts in the skin.

Professor Joseph Levy of the department of clinical biochemistry brought the antiaging discussion back to external aging with a presentation on lycopene in supplements. According to Levy, his research found lycopene to possibly reduce the damage caused by UV radiation.

The third session opened with a philosophic discussion on the emergence of superbugs by Kenneth Richman, PhD, associate professor of philosophy and health care ethics at the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences. He began with an introduction on antimicrobials. According to Richman, evidence has shown that regular soap may work just as well against bacteria as antibacterial soap. Richman concluded that the rise in interest for antimicrobials is due more to marketing than a scientific need.