in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: April 25, 2012

BARCELONA—Personal care was taken very personally at in-cosmetics in Barcelona, April 17–19, 2012, as ingredient developers took R&D to a painstaking level of detail: the genome. While the study of gene expression is by no means new, and the concept of epigenomics has previously emerged at conferences and in research at universities and large manufacturers, it has materialized in the mainstream as the basis for many new cosmetic active launches. In fact, during the event, the editors of Cosmetics & Toiletries interviewed several attendees who noted the highly advanced methods being used by raw material suppliers.

However, the specificity of such techniques does not necessarily limit one to the development of one active for one function. By evaluating a broader profile of activities, some ingredient developers have found that, as suspected, the activity of a whole raw material, taken together, is often greater than the sum of its parts.

A total of 590 exhibitors participated in this year’s event, including 50+ new exhibitors, showcasing everything one might imagine; from nutricosmetics and gene-regulating actives for anti-aging benefits, to new targets such as aging in the legs, partnerships with market research companies and holistic approaches to ingredient development. Launches in crucial mainstay ingredients such as formulating aids, sensory materials and staple skin, sun, hair and color ingredients also abounded. Following are just a few highlights. During the three days, a total of 7,152 unique attendees perused such offerings, an increase of 5% over 2011, making in-cosmetics 2012 the largest to date.

Genetic Cosmetics

As Rebecca James Gadberry of the University of California at Los Angeles and YG Labs, once explained, genetic traits were once thought to be unchangeable but it turns out there is an epigenome, or “above” genome, that manages their expression, and this entity can be manipulated. According Gadberry, UV radiation, diet, drugs, stress and cosmetic ingredients are among a number of factors proven to trigger chemical influences on gene expression without changing the genes themselves.

in-cosmetics dedicated an entire education session to such research, titled “Cosmetogenomics—At the Cutting Edge of Cosmetic Science,” with discussions of gene expression studies and proteomic techniques to explore skin and hair properties, toxicology and product efficacy. Contributions were included from VitroScreen, the University of Bradford, Laboratoires Expanscience, and the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection of the European Commission’s Joint Research Center.