Regulating Epidermal Homeostasis for Skin Moisturization

Dec 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Katie Schaefer
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Title: Regulating Epidermal Homeostasis for Skin Moisturization
  • Article

To support the skin’s natural mechanism of moisturization, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, has designed Aqu'activ (INCI: Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Cocamide MIPA (and) Calcium Citrate) to restructure and fortify dry and fragile skin by regulating its epidermal homeostasis.

If the skin’s protective barrier is compromised, skin becomes dry, flaky and, according to the company, more sensitive to external stress factors such as pollution, air conditioning and frequent cleansing. In addition, dry skin is more prone to inflammation and injuries. This moisturizer reportedly helps to restructure the stratum corneum from the inside to ensure the optimal condition of the epidermis, resulting in improved moisturization and elasticity.

The ingredient is composed of a calcium compound and a ceramidase inhibitor, and reportedly exhibits three main actions that have been demonstrated in vitro to promote the structuring and stabilization of the stratum corneum. First, it supports keratinocyte differentiation by increasing the levels of the enzyme transglutaminase-1 and the protein involucrin, two specific markers of this process. Second, it enhances the level of tight junction proteins occludin and ZO-1, which play an important role in connecting neighboring cells. Third, it maintains optimal lipid balance by accelerating the synthesis of new lipids and inhibiting ceramide degradation.

According to the company, the material has been shown to significantly improve skin moisturization and elasticity after 14 days of treatment. The moisturizer is recommended at 2-3% in a wide range of applications, including: moisturizing skin care products, contouring products, antiaging/mature skin care products, moisturizing/firming body care products and makeup.