Evonik utilized sphingolipid technology to create an active that reduces the sagging and loose skin associated with aging. Sphingokine NP (Proposed INCI: Caprooyl Phytosphingosine) is said to act on multiple layers of skin in anti-sagging and facial contour anti-aging applications.
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine is a short-chain ceramide that was found to penetrate deep into the skin to stimulate the communication between cells from the epidermis to the dermis and even the subcutaneous tissue.
In the epidermis, the active serves as a signaling molecule for keratinocyte differentiation. This leads to strengthening, densifying and smoothing effects of the stratum corneum.
In addition, factors that stimulate dermal cells (fibroblasts) are induced by the active, leading to improved communication between keratinocytes and fibroblasts and dermal matrix stimulation by keratinocyte-derived signals. The active supports the dermal scaffold function by inducing fibroblast-derived signals for improved extracellular matrix (ECM) organization. In addition, dermal matrix formation is stimulated by keratinocyte- and adipocyte-derived signals. Thus, the active tightens the skin structure and tones skin tissues.
The active stimulates adipocytes, leading to induced communication between adipocytes and fibroblasts, which ultimately results in additional support of dermal ECM. Adipose matrix formation and modulation of lipogenesis is stimulated by the active, which results in denser subcutaneous fat tissue. This results in visibly plumped and reshaped skin.