Deciphering Frizz Control Hair Care Formulas

Apr 1, 2011 | Contact Author | By: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.
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Title: Deciphering Frizz Control Hair Care Formulas
frizzx hair carex repairx smoothingx siliconex
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Keywords: frizz | hair care | repair | smoothing | silicone

Abstract: Frizz control hair care has been around for almost 20 years. Frizzy hair is a major issue for women with curly hair that has especially been chemically or mechanically treated.

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E Abrutyn, Decipering Frizz Control Hair Care Formulas, Cosm & Toil 126(4) (2011)

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Frizz control hair care has been around for almost 20 years. Frizzy hair is a major issue for women with curly hair that has especially been chemically or mechanically treated. These consumers spend time each day adjusting and controlling the style of their hair, specifically to control the onset of frizz in high humidity environments. This market continues to exhibit innovation as new technologies and products are consistently being launched.

Moisture has a significant impact on hair frizz because water vapor in the air can be transported inside the cortex of the hair shaft, modifying the temporary hydrogen bonds created by hair proteins during styling. These proteins are based on four, twisted long chain amino acids running lengthwise down the shaft. The chemical bonds between the protein chains provide the cohesion that establishes the natural form of the hair. Water/humidity/dampness can disrupt this cohesion but drying allows for the reformation of the keratin chains, which can be temporarily altered as part of the styling process and during hair drying.

Another primary contributing factor to frizzy hair is damage to hair strands due to rough brushing, i.e. the lack of a good conditioning agent for wet and dry combing; chemical treatments such as perming, bleaching and coloring; UV exposure; and heat styling. All of these factors lead to a damaged cuticle and split ends, potentially increasing porosity and swelling of the hair cuticle, creating another entry point for style-disrupting moisture.

A secondary contributor to frizz is dry hair that becomes statically charged due to hair’s negative charge. This charge results in the repulsion of hair’s protein keratin strands—hard, fibrous proteins comprised of polypeptide chains—when shampooed with negatively charged depositing ingredients. As hair becomes coarse and dull from cuticle damage, it loses its tensile strength in the cortex.

Key Components for Frizz Repair

Hair care products that control or repair frizz must eliminate lifting of the cuticle, minimize loss of internal lipids, and improve hair tensile strength. Conventional methods utilize a physical coating to smooth the cuticle, modulate moisture content in the cortex, and improve both wet and dry combing. The most widely used smoothing ingredients are silicone fluids, i.e. high molecular weight dimethylsiloxanes or polydimethylsiloxane gums such as dimethicone or dimethiconol.

The search continues for raw materials that effectively coat and smooth the cuticle and that minimize the effect of humidity while not creating buildup on hair, which can be perceived as greasy and dirty. Recent hair smoothing technologies have been based on crosslinking the dimethylsiloxane backbone (e.g. dimethicone crosspolymer) and combinations with complex esters, such as diethoxy ethyl succinate and dicaprylyl ether.

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Table 1. John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum

Table 1. John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum

This serum, shown in Figure 1 and Table 1, is promoted as helping to correct and transform dry and medium frizz instantly.

Table 2. Avon Advance Techniques Frizz Control Lotus Shield Anti-frizz Treatment

Table 2. Avon Advance Techniques Frizz Control Lotus Shield Anti-frizz Treatment

This product, shown in Figure 2 and Table 2, was designed to repel water like a lotus leaf to resist up to 97% humidity.

Table 3. Sassy Treatment Cream

Table 3. Sassy Treatment Cream

This cream, shown in Figure 3 and Table 3, features an advanced liposome system, possibly a combination of polyacrylamide and fatty acids, to deliver avocado oil, ceramide and bio-lipids deep into the cortex of the hair for nourishment.

Table 4. FX Special Effects Curls Up Crema para Restablecer los Rizos (Curl Reviving Mousse)

Table 4. FX Special Effects Curls Up Crema para Restablecer los Rizos (Curl Reviving Mousse)

This mousse, shown in Figure 4 and Table 4, is formulated with dimethicone copolyol and VP/DMAPA acrylates to add volume, texture and control to frizzy and uncontrollable curls.

Table 5. Frosini Trilogia Hair Treatment T + A (Smooth Effect Anti-Frizz Salt-Free Shampoo)

Table 5. Frosini Trilogia Hair Treatment T + A (Smooth Effect Anti-Frizz Salt-Free Shampoo)

This shampoo, shown in Figure 5 and Table 5, is said to hydrate hair, providing a smooth effect, preventing unmanageable hair, fighting frizz and protecting against damage caused by hot styling tools.

Table 6. Corpus Cosméticos Indústria e Comércio Finesse Creme para Pentear Condicionador Sem Enxágue (Antifrizz Leave-in Combing Cream)

Table 6. Corpus Cosméticos Indústria e Comércio Finesse Creme para Pentear Condicionador Sem Enxágue (Antifrizz Leave-in Combing Cream)

This combing cream, shown in Figure 6 and Table 6, features a self-adjusting technology based on pH modulation of the proteins with acetamide MEA and citric acid to restore strands, hydrate, nourish, protect, infuse shine and fight frizz, to help deliver smooth, soft hair that detangles easily.

Figure 1. John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum

Figure 1. John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum

This serum, shown in Figure 1 and Table 1, is promoted as helping to correct and transform dry and medium frizz instantly.

Figure 2. Avon Advance Techniques Frizz Control Lotus Shield Anti-frizz Treatment

Figure 2. Avon Advance Techniques Frizz Control Lotus Shield Anti-frizz Treatment

This product, shown in Figure 2 and Table 2, was designed to repel water like a lotus leaf to resist up to 97% humidity.

Figure 3. Sassy Treatment Cream

Figure 3. Sassy Treatment Cream

This cream, shown in Figure 3 and Table 3, features an advanced liposome system, possibly a combination of polyacrylamide and fatty acids, to deliver avocado oil, ceramide and bio-lipids deep into the cortex of the hair for nourishment.

Figure 4. FX Special Effects Curls Up Crema para Restablecer los Rizos (Curl Reviving Mousse)

Figure 4. FX Special Effects Curls Up Crema para Restablecer los Rizos (Curl Reviving Mousse)

This mousse, shown in Figure 4 and Table 4, is formulated with dimethicone copolyol and VP/DMAPA acrylates to add volume, texture and control to frizzy and uncontrollable curls.

Figure 5. Frosini Trilogia Hair Treatment T + A (Smooth Effect Anti-Frizz Salt-Free Shampoo)

Figure 5. Frosini Trilogia Hair Treatment T + A (Smooth Effect Anti-Frizz Salt-Free Shampoo)

This shampoo, shown in Figure 5 and Table 5, is said to hydrate hair, providing a smooth effect, preventing unmanageable hair, fighting frizz and protecting against damage caused by hot styling tools.

Figure 6. Corpus Cosméticos Indústria e Comércio Finesse Creme para Pentear Condicionador Sem Enxágue (Antifrizz Leave-in Combing Cream)

Figure 6. Corpus Cosméticos Indústria e Comércio Finesse Creme para Pentear Condicionador Sem Enxágue (Antifrizz Leave-in Combing Cream)

This combing cream, shown in Figure 6 and Table 6, features a self-adjusting technology based on pH modulation of the proteins with acetamide MEA and citric acid to restore strands, hydrate, nourish, protect, infuse shine and fight frizz, to help deliver smooth, soft hair that detangles easily.

Figure 7. Living Proof No Frizz Humidity Blocking Conditioner

Figure 7. Living Proof No Frizz Humidity Blocking Conditioner

This conditioner, shown in Figure 7 and Table 7, is said to block humidity, hydrate and restore shine to all hair types.

Poly- or mono-ethylene Glycol Monoether or Derivative Selections

The described dibasic acid ester compound in this patent is selected from:
Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Diethylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Diethylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Triethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Triethylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Triethylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Dipropylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Dipropylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Dipropylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Tripropylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Tripropylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Tripropylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Dibutylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Dibutylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Dibutylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Dibutylene Glycol Monobuthyl Ether
Dibutylene Glycol Monoisobutyl Ether
Tributylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Tributylene Glycol Monopropyl Ether
Tributylene Glycol Monoisopropyl Ether
Tributylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether
Tributylene Glycol Monoisobutyl Ether

Biography: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, a Cosmetics & Toiletries scientific advisory board member, and chairman of the Personal Care Products Council’s International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Committee. Recently retired from Kao Brands, Abrutyn founded TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc., a personal care consultancy. He has more than 35 years of experience in the raw material supplier and skin and hair care manufacturer aspects of personal care.

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