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1,223 Results

Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A Stable, Vitamin C-Derived Agent for Skin Whitening

Melanin-reducing agents are considered safer alternatives to melanocytotoxic compounds. Thus, the present work examines the effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on enhancing skin tone by reducing melanin through the inhibition of tyrosinase-related proteins. Described studies include tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibition, in vitro and ex vivo melanin inhibition, clinical whitening, DNA protection and collagen synthesis.

Inhibiting Cathepsin G to Protect Against Photoaging and Infra’aging

Ultraviolet and infrared exposure are sources of premature skin aging, characterized by solar elastosis and extracellular matrix degradation. Polygonum aviculare extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor, and is shown here to oppose photoaging and infra’aging by improving skin firmness and elasticity, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions

This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.

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Polyacrylate-33 for Thickening and Suspending in Low Surfactant Cleansers

Described herein is a hydrophobically-modified acrylic copolymer, polyacrylate-33, which is designed for low-to-medium surfactant-containing cleansers. The ingredient is shown to display high thickening efficiency and good suspension properties and shear-thinning rheology in sulfate-based and sulfate-free chassis. Further, it enables transparent formulations in the presence of salt with improved foaming and sensorial properties.

Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade

The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH), found in Part I to stimulate the production of elastic fibers in vitro, was next tested in vivo for its capacity to improve skin elasticity parameters, using various biophysical and imaging techniques. Significant differences in facial ptosis and extensibility were observed in the 56-day, vehicle-controlled clinical study described here.

Sensational Sun Care with Protection and Sensory

Up until now, the sunscreen industry had not been able to deliver the advanced feel that consumers were seeking in their formulations, especially those containing inorganic sunscreen filters. To answer this need, Croda has developed an inorganic sunscreen filter with truly sensational skin feel.

Patent Picks—Reactivating Sunscreens; Etched UV Protection; Jaboticaba/Cashew Skin Care; Water-soluble Sunscreens

Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued or applied for in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features sun protection and skin repair technologies.

Solar Flair

If like me, you’re just daydreaming of the beach, this collection of articles will enlighten you with its focus on sun protection, SPF testing, damage repair and more.

The Latest in Whitening Agents

In recent years, new agents, especially from plants, have been discovered and extracted to test for their depigmenting effects in vitro and in vivo. This article reviews these most recent skin whitening agents of interest, whose efficacy, mechanism and safety have been tested.

Peptidomimetics for Cosmetic Applications

Peptidomimetics, or synthetic bioactive peptides, have been developed that mimic the biological functions of peptides and proteins but overcome many of these challenges and limitations. Further, due to their wide range of activity, synthetic feasibility and ease of handling, they have played a vital part in biological research. This column will discuss the potential application of these short chain oligomers in cosmetics and personal care.

In vitro/vivo SPF Correlation and Repeatability According to Substrate

This work evaluates the impact of three different substrates on in vitro SPF measurements, and defines experimental conditions to improve their correlation with in vivo values. Evaluations of 32 products, shown here, led the authors to conclude that molded substrates improved repeatability and correlation with in vivo SPF values.

Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor

Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.

Testing Sun Protection Factor on Skin

There are various test methods set by global governing bodies for SPF protection, but this article will discuss the five time-point internationally approved ISO 24444 method.

Mary Begovic Johnson

Energizing Cells for More Youthful Skin

Procter & Gamble (P&G) researchers, including Mary Begovic Johnson, principal scientist, may have come closer to finding the "fountain of youth" in cellular bioenergetics. As she explains, the role of this discipline in skin’s appearance has been identified, along with ingredients that can restore energy to cells.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A Stable, Vitamin C-Derived Agent for Skin Whitening

Melanin-reducing agents are considered safer alternatives to melanocytotoxic compounds. Thus, the present work examines the effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on enhancing skin tone by reducing melanin through the inhibition of tyrosinase-related proteins. Described studies include tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibition, in vitro and ex vivo melanin inhibition, clinical whitening, DNA protection and collagen synthesis.

Inhibiting Cathepsin G to Protect Against Photoaging and Infra’aging

Ultraviolet and infrared exposure are sources of premature skin aging, characterized by solar elastosis and extracellular matrix degradation. Polygonum aviculare extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor, and is shown here to oppose photoaging and infra’aging by improving skin firmness and elasticity, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Treating Wrinkles with Dimethylaminoethanol, Retinol and Mineral Salts

A placebo-controlled study was conducted to determine if the appearance of wrinkles on facial skin could be improved by a combination of three cosmetic ingredients: dimethylaminoethanol, retinol and mineral salts. Both clinical assessment and video analysis of cutaneous replicas showed a significant improvement of the wrinkle appearance.

Aquaporin Inspired Lipid Concentrate For Mature Skin

An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin

The authors describe a novel multi-lamellar concentrate based on ceramide technology and newly identified cell-signalling molecules. This skin-identical blend provides skin protection benefits and is shown to increase molecular markers for water management and barrier components that decline during aging, thus improving skin barrier function, moisturization and elasticity.

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