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Type: Article
Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Moisturizing
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Phosphate Derivatives, Comfort Soap Cleanser, Producting Hyaluronic Acid, Foamable Moisturization and More on Moisturization
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition, chosen by Katie Anderson (Schaefer), associate editor of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine, features patents related to moisturization and conditioning of hair and skin.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Natural vs. Hydrogenated Butters
Industry expert Tony O'Lenick asks Thomas O'Lenick, PhD, to explain the difference between hydrogenated butters and naturally occurring butters.
Moisturizing
Ingredient Profile — Glycerin
Glycerin is a unique and versatile chemical with numerous applications; to adequately cover all of the aspects of this compound in a short column would be impossible. Therefore, this column will highlight some key facts about glycerin, but interested readers are encouraged to pursue further, more comprehensive reading on the ingredient.
Moisturizing
Improving Hair Properties with Corn Starch and Beet Extract
DayMoist CLR™ is a skin care ingredient of natural origin, certified by Ecocert and NaTrue. This compound has been found to moisturize the skin; however, its ability to improve the condition, elasticity, and color and heat protection parameters of hair has also been observed, as the following four experiments show.
Literature/Data
A Review of Anti-irritants, Part II: Moisturizer, Anti-irritant Efficacy and Overall Interpretation*
his column is the second of a two-part series about anti-irritants. Part I appeared in the March 2011 issue and covered anti-irritants, irritant reaction and barrier cream efficacy. The present column summarizes the efficacy of moisturizers and anti-irritant substances and provides an overall interpretation.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Colored Bubbles, Straightening, Suspended Air and More in Hair Care
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to hair cleansing, conditioning and styling, among others.
Moisturizing
Ingredient Profile—Polyquaternium-7
Last month’s “Ingredient Profile” column reviewed polyquaternium-6 (PQ-6), the cationic homopolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC). In relation, this month’s column examines its cousin, polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7), one of the most widely used and cost-effective conditioning polymers for personal care applications.
Moisturizing
Ingredient Profile: Polyquaternium-6
Polyquaternium-6 (PQ-6) is the polymeric quaternary ammonium salt derived from the homopolymerization of diallyldimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC) monomer.
Cleansing
A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction
In this article, the significance of parameters such as correlation length (blob size), micelle structure, comicellization, polymer adsorption conformation and coacervate structure are introduced with relevance to the conceptual appreciation of polymer-surfactant interactions and its bearing on recent advances in conditioning shampoos.
Hair Care
Hydrolyzed Quinoa for Hair Repair and Gloss
Quinoa Pro EX (INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Quinoa) is a hydrolyzed quinoa protein from TRI-K Industries that is designed to bind to the hair shaft and penetrate the cortex, bringing moisture and repair deep into the hair.
Skin Care
Skin Care Moisturizers
Moisturizers are an important category of personal care products, and such formulas are designed to add moisture to the skin. Developing a good moisturizer requires carefully balancing the ingredients in a formula so that, upon application, the product maintains proper water content in the skin, i.e., 10–30%, to maintain its plasticity and barrier integrity.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Hair and Eyelash Growth, Fixatives, Surfactants and More
Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to hair care, styling and growth.
Moisturizing
Adapting Formulas to Skin Moisture Needs: A Review
Moisturization in skin care formulations requires an understanding of clinical needs, relevant biological targets and the aesthetic preferences of consumers. The efficacy of moisturizers must be established in vivo due to consumer interest in both visual and instrumental validation. This review outlines the challenges of formulating moisturizing facial skin care products in line with such principles.
Moisturizing
Sucrose Ester Multilamellar Emulsifiers for Skin Moisturization
In the present article, a topical emulsifier blend comprising two sucrose esters at low use levels and one solid fatty alcohol is described. This composition was designed to make the use of sucrose esters in formulations more cost-effective. The blend is shown to form multilamellar liquid crystalline networks for various benefits including skin moisturization, which is assessed here.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Humectants vs. Emollients vs. Occlusive Agents
The following excerpt is adapted with permission from an article by Kelly Dobos of Kao Corp., titled, "How Do Skin Moisturizers Work," which was featured on the Chemist's Corner. The article discusses how moisturizers work on skin with respect to the three main ingredient categories: humectants, emollients and occlusive agents.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Linear vs. Branched vs. Unsaturated Alcohols and Acids
Tony O’Lenick asks Art Hein of Jarchem to explain the difference between linear, branched and unsaturated alcohols and acids. These properties can be used by the formulator to choose the correct ester for a given formulation.
Moisturizing
Assessing the Targeting Conditioning Performance of Cationic Polymers
The distribution of a conditioning shampoo’s cationic polymers and silicone oils along the hair fiber defines its performance. Therefore in the present paper, researchers conduct spectroscopy and microscopy measurements to assess the polymer and silicone deposition of various conditioning systems on hair fibers, the results of which are used to compare efficacy.
Moisturizing
Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care
The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.
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