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Section: Research > Literature/Data

Ceramides and Other Topics

Schreiner et al. have investigated the barrier characteristics of different human skin types with X-ray diffraction, lipid analysis and electron microscopy imaging.

Antiperspirants and Other Topics

Emulsions made of monoesters and polymers: L’Oréal discloses interesting oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions consisting of monoesters and polymers.

Corneocare and Comfort Science

At the Skin Forum 2013 event in London, the seven pillars of “corneocare,” were introduced, which targeted: the epidermal tissue at the molecular, cellular and structural level; epidermal function; tactile experience; appearance and sensation. This is one of the first concepts in personal care to close the gap between consumer perception and a scientific approach.

Raw Material and Vehicle Patents

Raw material and vehicle patents lead to some of the world's most innovative personal care products. The following is a snapshot of some recent patents.

Protein Oxidation and Other Topics

Sander et al. confirm that photoaging is associated with protein oxidation in human skin in vivo. Exposure of human skin to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, the major environmental factor that affects the structure and function of skin, induces a spectrum of well-documented acute and chronic responses.

Formulating Focus—Delivering Actives via Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Part IV, Percutaneous Absorption and Dermal Cosmetic Formulations

In this fourth part of a five-part series discusses the percutaneous absorption of actives loaded into solid lipid SLNs and NLCs and their formulation in dermal cosmetics.

Patent Picks—Methyl Naphthalenyl Ketone, Oxylipins, Metal Oxide Shell Microcapsules, Tsuga, Furanone and More for the Treatment of Skin Inflammation and Irritation

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition, chosen by Katie Anderson (Schaefer), associate editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, features patents related to the treatment of inflamed or irritated skin.

Hormesis and Cosmetic Dermatology

This review examines hormetic effects of various agents on skin biology. Recognition of this emerging biological phenomenon in dermatology could lead to markedly improved integrative assessments of animal/human skin responses to toxic substances and pharmacological agents, as well as endogenous agonists.

Rosacea: Cause, Triggers and Treatment

Rosacea is a common disorder of the facial skin that affects an estimated 14 million Americans. In fact, rosacea is becoming increasingly widespread as the baby boomer generation enters the most susceptible ages for its development.

Odor Reception: Structure and Mechanism

Olfaction is a multi-step process involving the odorant molecule, the odor receptor protein, the pockets for odorant ligand docking, and the odor patterns formed by the glumeruli and decoded by the brain.

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Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness

The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.

Cationic Peptides and Cell Penetration

Controversy surrounds how certain cationic peptides enter the cell.

Specialty Pigments: Properties and Effects

Specialty pigments bring unique effects to personal care products, thus they are an important class of color additives for the decorative cosmetic industry. Presented here is a review of their properties and benefits, including mechanisms of refraction and reflection, as well as regulatory considerations.

Wrinkle Profilometry and Other Topics

Evaluating the maturity of cornified envelopes: Hirao has published a review on the significance of cornified envelopes in barrier function of the stratum corneum. Cornified envelopes (CE), which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by crosslinking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases. The CE provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Polypodium leucotomos and Other Topics

Polypodium leucotomos extract to decrease UV-induced damage: Exposure of human skin to sunlight containing UVA and UVB radiation exposes the skin to deleterious effects such as sunburn, immune suppression, pigmentary changes, photoaging and skin cancer. The mechanism of such cutaneous damage induction is complex, but can be broadly divided into direct oxygen-dependent damage through absorption of photons, and oxidative damage caused by formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. This is why antioxidants have been increasingly studied as inhibitors or quenchers of UV-induced cutaneous damage.

Cigarette Smoking and Skin Biomarkers

Some research has been documented as to the damaging effects of smoking on the skin vasculature and on oxygenation in both human and animal models.

Sunscreens and Other Products

Takagi et al report on the barrier reinforcing function of synthetic compounds called quasi-ceramides.

Smoking and Premature Aging

Multiple environmental factors are associated with facial aging; evidence suggests that smoking 20 cigarettes per day is equivalent in effect to almost 10 years of chronological aging. Therefore, lifestyle recommendations to stop or delay facial skin aging are also very useful in promoting public health.

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