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Sea Buckthorn Emerges as MVP for Organic and Antiaging Products

Sea buckthorn oil, extracted from the seeds and berries, is a natural remedy for treating certain types of ulcers and skin conditions since it has healing and emollient properties.

Polypeptide Moisturizer for a Smooth Skin Feel

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has introduced a polypeptide moisturizer.

Oleosomes: Natural, Self-emulsifying Systems

Safflower oleosomes isolated in the form of a naturally occurring emulsion can be useful to the cosmetics marketplace to deliver the emolliency, occlusivity and antioxidant effects without the need for other emulsifiers. In addition, safflower oleosomes can be used as the nonactive portion of the oil phase of a typical cosmetic formulation.

Protecting Hair with Natural Keratin Biopolymers

UV protection and sacrificial targets for aggressive pollutants are two hair-protection strategies employed by a new keratin biopolymer manufactured from wool.

Fatty Ester vs. Benzoate Ester

Industry expert Tony O’Lenick compares fatty esters, made by reacting fatty alcohol and fatty acid, with benzoate esters, reaction products of short aromatic acids and fatty alcohol.

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate: A Deus-ex-Machina Emulsifier for Color Cosmetics

Inulin lauryl carbamate is a polysaccharide-based emulsifier that addresses the twin problems of emulsion stability and high powder content in color cosmetic formulations. Here, the authors present a formulation strategy.

Reducing Odiferous Volatiles with Zeolites

Undesirable odors transmitted by volatile molecules in some personal care ingredients can be substantially reduced by adding 5% of an appropriate odor-adsorbing zeolite powder. Here, the authors show this reduction by observing the headspace (HS) over the ingredients via gas.

A New Formulators' Tool for Customizing Sensory

Optimizing the sensory properties of o/w emulsion systems is an ongoing challenge for formulators, thus tools to simplify this process are desirable. Here, the authors describe a visual tool to assist in selecting the right combination of certain crosslinked acrylic rheology modifiers and specialty emollient esters to meet target aesthetics.

Enhancing the Feel of Vegetable Oils with Silicone

Adding silicone to natural oils can reduce surface tension thus improving spreading characteristics. This results in finished formulations with improved sensory profiles and in addition, expands on the opportunities for using these natural ingredients.

Getting Intimate with Polymers: Personal Lubricants

Personal lubricants (PLs) have gained tremendous popularity primarily because of their ability to enhance the comfort and pleasure of intimate activities. These formulated medical devices rely on polymers to deliver lubricity, viscosity and distinct rheological characteristics. Various polymer chemistries enable modern PLs to provide long-lasting lubrication and unique sensorial experiences...

Well-grounded

Are we as an industry sick with green? Consumer markets in general are saturated with a haze of green thought and activity, which of course is beneficial for and considerate of the planet on which we live—and frankly, long overdue.

Triggering Physical Response Via Aroma in Lip Gloss

Lip gloss imparts shine, may add color and occasionally provides moisturization. However, just as the concepts of cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have moved into makeup, lip gloss has taken on new roles.

Hair and Amino Acids

Amino acids are taken up by hair and assist in improving hair surface hydrophobicity, tensile strength and luster. This article discusses interactions between amino acids and hair.

Bench & Beyond: Triggering Controlled Release of Fragrance

This column examines some of the recent patent literature on triggers for controlled release of fragrance and was, itself, triggered by a reading of Andreas Herrmann’s recent review of pro-fragrances in Angewandte Chemie.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

Bench & Beyond: Insider Tips on Formulating with Fragrance

In 2008, Allured Publishing Corp. will release a new compilation, Fragrance in Personal Care. Tips on that topic are scattered throughout the book and collected in this column by the author for the convenience of formulators, and to give a sample of the range of contributors inside this book.

Hybrid Polymer for Hair Spray Formulations

Crotonic acid/vinyl C8–12 isoalkyl esters/VA/bis-vinyldimethicone crosspolymer is a new hybrid polymer for use in hair sprays. This highly branched block copolymer is shown to give hair a firm hold yet soft, natural feel. It is recommended for use in quick-drying, low-tack hair sprays with high water content.

Dermatological View: Allergic Contact Dermatitis to Linalool

This article reviews the published data on the allergenicity of linalool relating to its relative potency as a skin sensitizer. A semiquantitative evaluation of the different reports cited below has been made in accordance with the system outlined in Maibach et al., which is based on the procedures proposed by Benezra et al.2 and describes the scoring system used for assigning the degree of confidence in data reported.