From Caper to Prickly Pear for Dermatitis to Dual Phase Mouthwash: Literature Review

By: Charles Fox (See In Memory Sidebar)

Posted: June 29, 2010, from the July 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Antioxidant protection and phase 2 enzyme inducers: Western Holdings LLC discloses skin protectant compositions containing antioxidants and indirect antioxidants⁴—i.e., phase 2 enzyme inducers—such as one to protect skin against the damage caused by UV radiation. Specifically disclosed is a broccoli extract in combination with a composition including Hibiscus flower extract, Ferula assa foetida root extract, pear fruit extract and green tea leaf extract, which exhibits a synergistic effect and protects against the adverse effects of UV radiation. The composition further includes vitamins C and E and is suggested for cosmetics, sunscreen products, moisturizers, toners and other skin care.

Quick makeup removal: Shiseido Co. describes a skin cleansing preparation⁵ to ensure the quick removal of makeup from skin. The composition is said to easily apply without dripping from the hands or face during application. In addition, the composition reportedly washes off smoothly, thereby refreshing the skin. The cleanser comprises: a) 1.0% to 15% w/w silicone oil; b) 1.0% to 15% w/w volatile hydrocarbon oil; c) 5.0% to 20% w/w dihydric glycol; d) 5.0% to 40% w/w polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid ester; and e) 15.0% to 88% w/w water—wherein the weight ratio of the silicone oil component (a) to the volatile hydrocarbon oil component (b) falls within a range of 0.3 to 3, and the viscosity of the preparation at 25°C is from 100 to 500 mPa•s.

Caper, prickly pear for dermatitis, xerosis: Dermogyn S.r.l. has patented compositions for the treatment of dermatitis and other skin conditions, specifically atopic dermatitis, that are also associated with pathological xerosis.6 The cosmetic vegetable o/w-based emulsions comprise: a restructuring agent, e.g. ceramides; an anti-inflammatory and protective agent such as caper extract; an emollient and keratoplastic agent such as allantoin; and an immunostimulating, hydrating and healing agent, e.g. prickly pear extract. Thus, a formulation may include: 2% ceramides, 0.5% allantoin, 5% olive oil unsaponifiables, 0.5% almond wax, 3.5% shea butter, 1.5% vitamin F, 0.5% stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 0.5% caper extract and 0.5% prickly pear extract plus preservatives and a buffer.

Hair and Hair Care
Imparting softness in hair post-damage: Milbon Co., Ltd. discloses emulsified hair cosmetic compositions7 to provide uniform softness evenly to partially damaged hair. These compositions are suitable for use in hair conditioners or in pre- or post-permanent hair wave-setting treatment agents. The described composition contains: a) a C12-22 linear primary alcohol; b) C12-22 branched primary alcohol; c) a cationic surfactant; d) polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester; and e) a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether; wherein the amount of component (c) is lower than the sum of components (d) and (e). The composition may further contain a glycerin fatty acid ester and/or a lecithin derivative. An example is shown in Formula 2.

Polysaccharide oxide for washing, conditioning hair: L’Oréal has patented a composition including a particular polysaccharide oxide for washing and conditioning keratinous materials, as well as its use and usage process.⁸ The invention contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 5.0% to 50% of one or more detergent surfactants and one or more oxidized anionic or nonionic polysaccharides made up of monosaccharides containing either 5 carbon atoms or more than 5–6 carbon atoms. The invention also concerns the utilization of said composition for the washing and conditioning of keratinous materials and a method for such. A shampoo composition is shown in Formula 3.