Instant/Gradual Self Tanning and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: February 1, 2010, from the February 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including whitening with vitamin C and Opuntia ficus indica, a pulverulent for hair shaping and shine, an amino functional silicone treatment to use post-relaxing, and instant/gradual self tanning, among others.

Skin and Skin Care
Exudates removal and improved feel: Kimberly-Clark Worldwide Inc. has disclosed a formulation that may be applied to skin and/or used in combination with a personal care product to improve absorbance and leakage control of the personal care product, and to promote a more positive feel and comfort through improved skin cleanliness and health.¹ A gel containing dimethicone was used to enhance removal of an exudate, i.e. menses, from the skin.

Promoting ascorbic acid in skin lighteners: Rohto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., has developed brown algae extracts to promote the uptake of ascorbic acid and skin lightening compositions containing the brown algae extracts and ascorbic acids.² Specifically, the lightening composition disclosed contained Laminaria ochroleuca (laminaine marine) extract and ascorbic acid and its derivatives and salts. L. ochroleuca was found to promote the expression of the sodium-dependent vitamin C transporter- 1 gene (SVCT-1) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. When added to a three-dimensional cultured human skin model, the brown algae significantly inhibited the production of melanin in the presence of ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C, Opuntia ficus-indica for whitening: The Face Shop Korea Co., Ltd., has disclosed a composition for removing the horny layer and lightening the skin that contains Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract and vitamin C stabilized by cationic and anionic substances.³ Combining vitamin C with cationic and anionic substances reportedly stabilized the vitamin C to protect it from oxidation caused by air, heat and water, thus maximizing its whitening effects. The Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract was found to promote the activities of chymotrypsin and trypsin related to desmosome decomposition, thereby promoting the turnover of skin keratin. Thus, the horny layer was removed without irritation, and the dark skin was whitened.

Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers: Allemann et al. have reviewed injectable hyaluronic acid gel preparations ^a,b for the treatment of facial wrinkles and folds.⁴ Soft tissue augmentation with temporary dermal fillers is a growing field, supported by the ongoing development of technologies and the biocompatibility of the products marketed. Longer-lasting, less immunogenic and more convenient hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers reportedly encompass a large share of the temporary dermal filler market. Since the approval of the first HA filler, at least 10 HA fillers have been approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

The gel preparations used for the described studya,^b were bacterium-derived, non-animal, stabilized HA. They are reportedly smooth, malleable gels with a homologous consistency that use a technology termed hylacrosstechnology. These materials have a high concentration of cross-linked HAs, which accounts for their longevity. While one^b gel typically is used for volumizing and correcting deeper folds, the othera is employed for contouring and volumizing medium depth facial wrinkles and lip augmentation. Various studies have found HA filler products to be superior in terms of duration, volume and patient satisfaction, when compared with collagen fillers.

Hair and Hair Care
Pulverulent for hair shaping and shine: Henkel AG & Co., KGaA, has published on the use of pulverulent compositions containing particulate hydrophobized metal oxide for the shaping and lustering of keratin fibers.⁵ The compositions comprise a maximum of 20% w/w water, a liquid phase of 40–95% w/w oil, and a solid phase of hydrophobic metal oxides. Particles for the solid phase were selected from titania, alumina, silica and phylosilicates, and were hydrophobized with compounds from the group of trialkylsilyls, perfluoroalkylsilyls, polyperfluoroalkylene oxides, polysiloxanes, perfluoroalkyl phosphates and perfluoroalkyl phosphate ethers. Film-forming polymers were then added. An example of a cream-in-powder preparation is shown in Formula 1.

Lasting hair spray with a film-forming polymer: Beiersdorf AG has patented a long-lasting hair spray formulated with a film-forming copolymer.6 The polymer is prepared from vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butylacrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropyldimethylethyl ammonium ethylsulfate. It is neutralized with an acid and an additive to improve the drying properties of the polymer film. The result is a linear vinylpyrrolidone-tert-butylacrylate-methacrylic acid-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide-methacryloylaminopropyldimethylethyl ammonium ethylsulfate copolymer neutralized with phosphoric acid, which is formulated into the hair spray at 3% w/w. Additional ingredients in the formula included 62% w/w ethanol and 35% w/w propane/butane.