Evaluating Outside-in Skin Transparency and Other Literature Findings
Formulas
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Formula 1. Hand and body cleanser with color-forming beads4
Formula 1. Hand and body cleanser with color-forming beads4
Sodium laureth sulfate (Texapon N-70, Cognis) 12.00% w/w Cocamidopropyl betaine (Dehyton PK 45, Cognis) 9.00 Coco-glucoside (Plantacare 818, Cognis) 2.00 Polyquaternium-7 (Conditioner P7, 3V Group) 1.00 Panthenol 0.20 Glycol distearate (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and) cocamide MEA (and) laureth-10 (Euperlan PK810, Cognis) 0.50 Styrene/acrylates copolymer (Acusol OP-301, Rohm and Haas) 2.00 Beads A1 premix (see below) 3.00 Beads B1 premix (see below) 1.00 Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC 50, Schülke) 1.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Beads A1 Mannitol 25.00–50.00 Cellulose 25.00–50.00 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose < 1.00 Ultramarines 25.00–50.00 Magnesium stearate 5.00–10.00 Beads B1 Cellulose 15.00–20.00 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 4.00–9.00 Lactose 25.00–32.00 Ultramarines 45.00–55.00 PVA 0.10–2.00 - Formula 2. Water-based mascara12
Formula 2. Water-based mascara12
Beeswax 10.00% w/w Candelilla wax 10.00 Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters (Phytowax Olive 18L57, Sophim) 10.00 Potassium soyate 2.50 Potassium cocoate 0.25 Glycerol 0.29 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.90 Iron oxide 7.00 Simethicone 0.20 Preservative qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 3. Long-wear lip gloss13
Formula 3. Long-wear lip gloss13
Phenyl trimethicone 12.00% w/w Isododecane 9.00 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (and) hexyl laurate 29.58 Silica silylate 3.50 Styrene/acrylates copolymer 15.00 PPG-51/SMDI copolymer 8.00 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 10.00 Cera microcristallina 2.50 1,2 Hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol 2.00 Organic or inorganic dry color pigments 2.75 Mica (and) titanium dioxide 4.75 Mica 0.52 Fragrance (parfum) 0.40 - Formula 4. Transparent silicone-in-water emulsion16
Formula 4. Transparent silicone-in-water emulsion16
Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 dimethicone 1.00% w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 1.00 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.50 Octyldodecanol 0.50 Glycerin 5.00 Panthenol 0.50 Fragrance (parfum) qs Methylparaben 0.40 Propylparaben 0.30 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 5. Pre-shave preparation18
Formula 5. Pre-shave preparation18
Polyfluoroalkyl dimethicone polymer 2.00% w/w Water (aqua) 16.40 Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.60 Isodecyl myristate 2.00 Trimethylpropane triethylhexanoate 1.00 Alcohol 78.00 By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: August 31, 2009, from the September 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Skin and Skin Care
Dermcidin: Readers interested in keeping up with skin physiology should read the study by Niyonsaba et al. on the human antimicrobial peptide dermicidin and its behavior in activating normal human keratinocytes.1 To protect against invading microbial pathogens, the skin has evolved various mechanisms including epithelial defenses, which mainly consist of antimicrobial proteins and peptides.In the skin, both resident and infiltrating cells synthesize and secrete small peptides that exhibit broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, fungi and viruses. However, it is increasingly evident that these peptides act not only as endogenous antibiotics, but also are involved in immune and/or inflammatory responses.
Dermcidin (DCD) is an isolated antimicrobial peptide produced by the eccrine sweat glands in the skin. Recently, the DCD peptides DCD-1 and DCD-1L were shown to display in vitro microbiocidal activities against bacteria and viruses, and can also trigger keratinocyte activation.
Curcumin for antiaging: Amorepacific Corp. disclosed a skin preparation containing vitamins C and D and curcumin to prevent skin damage caused by photoaging.2 The disclosed composition reduced free radicals, thus preventing increased catalase activity or water loss caused by UV radiation. The preparation is said to prevent skin damage caused by UV rays, which are the main cause of skin photoaging. In addition, it was shown to exhibit moisturizing and antiaging effects.
Resveratrol and DNA repair enzyme synergy: ELC Management LLC discloses compositions including resveratrol or a derivative thereof and at least one DNA repair enzyme, and a method to repair human skin damaged by environmental stressors such as sun exposure.3 These compositions were applied to skin and, after a period of rest, a synergistic effect was demonstrated; the OGG1 enzyme and resveratrol were found to protect cells from UVB induced toxicity. Formulations containing trisodium resveratrol triphosphate, two different repair enzymesa, b and other ingredients are disclosed.
- Formula 2. Water-based mascara12