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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 10 of 11Raw Materials
Cyclodextrins and encapsulation: Regiert reviews the cyclodextrins as another tool for encapsulation.17 Cyclodextrins are ring-shaped cylindrical molecules comprising a number of linked glucose molecules. Their complexes have the ability to wrap each individual molecule of the active ingredient, a process known as complexation. The cyclodextrins act as the host, and the accommodated molecule is the guest, which can be any molecule that is both small enough to fit inside the cavity and non-polar enough to interact with the lipophilic internal surface. In cosmetic and personal care products, the resulting complex releases the cosmetic substances on the skin exactly where it is needed. The advantages of using cyclodextrins in various products are described.
Soo-Jin Park et al. have written a book chapter reviewing microcapsules for fragrances and cosmetics.18 This chapter presents a systematic review of patents on fragrance and cosmetic microcapsules and microparticles. It describes the basic nature of fragrance and perfumery molecules and perfume construction and microencapsulation.
Perfumes are microencapsulated for improved long-term stability, efficacy, and controlled (or sustained) release over long periods. They are also often added as fragrants to other microencapsulated cosmetic products for body-care, air fresheners, wipe tissues, and detergents. The patents reviewed are also tabulated by formulation and microencapsulation of perfumes, and related devices for sustained perfume release based on fibers, fabrics, cyclodextrin, multilayer particles, selective aroma generators, and all types of natural and synthetic polymers used for these applications. Chemical structures of basic fragrant molecules, morphologies of different microcapsules, and examples of perfumed microcapsules, microspheres, fibers and fabrics are also discussed and illustrated. The review includes 173 references and 24 figures and tables.
a Nikkol TLP-4 is a product of Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan.
b Emulgen 2025G is a product of Kao Corporation,Tokyo, Japan.
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Address correspondence to Charles Fox, c/o Editor, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, 362 South Schmale Road, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2787 USA.