Technically Speaking: Moisturization

October 14, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Skin Moisturization
γ-Polyglutamates: Ho et al. disclose moisturizers containing one or more of the following: the H form of γ-polyglutamic acid, its γ-polyglutamate (γ-PG) salts and its γ-PG hydrogels.1 Among the salts are γ-PG in the form of Na+, K+, NH4+, Mg++ or Ca++. These ingredients can be used in cosmetic or personal care products, such as the facial moisture mask in Formula 1.

Hyaluronic acid: Novozymes Biopolymer describes a hyaluronic acid fraction with moisturizing and antiwrinkle properties. This moisturizing, cosmetic or antiwrinkle ingredient contains hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof with an average molecular weight in the 0.7–0.9 MDa range. Claims are made for the ingredient and for any cosmetic product or drug product using the ingredient. With the example shown in Formula 2, hydration increased by a significant 7% over the eight weeks of treatment with active cream in female volunteers.

Glycerin: A patent assigned to Natura Cosmeticos S.A. describes a moisturizing cosmetic composition containing glycerin at high concentration and a process for its preparation.3 In the composition are several systems. A moisturizing system contains 8–10% glycerin by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. An emollient system contains at least cetyl lactate and shea butter. An emulsifying system contains at least steareth-2 and steareth-21. An oiliness-adsorbing system contains at least nylon 12. A silicone system contains at least cyclomethicone and a crosspolymer of cyclomethicone and dimethicone.