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In Depth and In Focus at in-cosmetics
By: Katie Schaefer
Posted: April 29, 2009
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Furthering the discussion of skin structure was Leroy, who discussed two-photon microscopy. According to Leroy, “No medical imaging can reveal skin structure on a molecular level, and although biopsy could, it is too invasive.” Two-photon miscroscopy is a non-invasive biochemical analysis which provides dynamic information and three-dimensional images on a sub-cellular scale using infrared light. Leroy went on to express that the main advantage of the microscope is that you can look at the dermis. With infrared light, collagen and elastin shine and the 3d structure of the protein network is revealed. Leroy added, “You can use it in vivo to see aging in the skin, including morphological and structural changes.”
The in-focus 3d stand featured the beauty innovation of a number of raw material suppliers. At this technological exhibition, Symrise presented the architecture of a fragrance through a pyramid diagram of fragrance notes. The fragrance began with a green hazelnut accord top note followed by an edible base note and a fruity middle note. This “next generation of non-alcohol fragrance” was demonstrated through a computerized scent box that emitted the designed fragrance for attendees to smell throughout the presentation. The company also demonstrated its process to create pearls for a personal care product in which a microemulsion was dropped into water. For Croda’s presentation at in-focus, it was all about the lips, as it explained the structure of lipstick and lipgloss in addition to the changing structure of the lips. According to its presentation, it used three standard waxes and changed the combination of 90% oils to product different oil/wax interaction.
Continuing the innovative product discussion was Mintel at the Innovation Zone, a partnership between the company and in-cosmetics. Nica Lewis, head consultant at Mintel Beauty Innovation, held a demonstration of some of the finished products she found to be innovative. These included products that utilized textured packaging, were formulated with interesting ingredients such as pheromones and imparted unique texture. Displayed behind the demonstration table were a number of raw material launches displayed at the stand in addition to many innovative finished products. The categories of finished products included techno beauty, naturals, protection and antiaging. Featured products, to name a few, included Sovage’s Tummy Flatening Gel, a transdermal gel formulated to reduce abdominal fat through precise delivery of its Epidril base formulation featuring aminophylline; RevGenetics’ Sirtuin Skin, a combination of resveratrol, acetyl hexapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and sodium hyaluronate to help fight the appearance of fine lines; and Chanel’s Ultra Correction Repair line, designed to firm and lessen the appearance of wrinkles.
Leading technologies for advanced skin care was not only a focus in the Innovation Zone, but also at the in-focus feature on the show floor where the topic of “3d” was explored. For example, Marie Seigneur, PhD, scientific development director for Chanel Research and Technology, described research from an architectural angle. Tensegrity is the property of skeletal structures to employ tension and compression to maximize efficiency and economy in an entity. She drew a parallel to this architectural phenomenon to the relationship between skin and bones, and how this relationship changes with aging.
“Tension and compression balance biological cells and make them active,” said Seigneur. “Without tension, cells die.” She described one major focus of the company’s work as examining integrins, which link cells to the matrix, in addition to tensin in fibroblasts, an intracellular protein that is important for adhesion and to maintain tension in the skin. “We now know what to do [with these biological factors],” said Seigneur, “but now we need to find a molecule or active that will do it.”