IFSCC Presents the Effectiveness, Economic and Ecological Aspects of Cosmetics

By: Elsa Jungman, University Paris–Sud

Posted: February 14, 2012

page 3 of 4

Alain Deguercy, PhD, from Bio-alternatives described the new SEBO662 sebocyte line for the in vitro evaluation of sebocyte physiology and the screening of compounds to control disorders linked to these cells. A 3D model was developed using this cell line showing properties such as the organization of cells and the expression of specific sebocyte differentiation markers. This model could be used to test sebaceous function regulators.

Also discussing cells, Ken Inomata, PhD, from Kosé Corp., showed that epidermis stem cells maintained epidermal homeostasis in a low-oxygen cell culture. The medium oxygen tension had a great impact on the cell culture in vitro. These findings indicate that basal keratinocytes are well-organized and can maintain their capacity in a hypoxic or antioxidant environment, which could be key for the development of anti-aging technologies.

Pierre-Yves Morvan of Codif International then presented a marine exopolysaccharide produced and secreted by a marine plankton micro-organism that can activate fibroblast contraction. It tightens the collagen fiber network, resulting in a tensing effect and reducing wrinkles just 15 min after application.

Hair and Skin Aging

The second day of the event included sessions on skin and hair aging. Paul Mouser, PhD, of Ashland/ISP emphasized the importance of protecting hair from aging, as he noted, “When you look at a person, you look at skin first, then hair.” The principal consequences of hair follicle aging are graying and decreases in hair growth, density, metabolism and keratin. Therefore, it is important to keep hair roots healthy. The scalp biopsies used in Mouser’s study enabled the observation of damage induced by UV irradiation, which led his team to develop a biofunctional antioxidant compound to protect the scalp and hair follicle. This compound was also found to help prevent oxidative-related pigment loss in the hair bulb.

David Boudier from Silab presented his clinical and cellular investigation of the effect of menopause on skin due to hormonal changes such as estrogen deficiency. The study showed abrupt changes in skin quality, in particular on the face. Wrinkles were more pronounced and biomechanical properties such as elasticity deteriorated. In addition, epidermal cell renewal capacity decreased as a result of reduced cell metabolism. This new data could provide the basis for the development of topical skin care products specifically adapted to the needs of women with respect to their hormonal status.

Surfactants and Skin