FLSCC Incites Regulation Debate on Sunscreens

By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: September 28, 2011

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Although sun protection is the most important part of a sunscreen, photostability of a sun care products is also a great area of interest. To that effect, Craig Bonda, director of R&D for HallStar, discussed the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate. He noted that both are sensitive to UVA radiation, producing photoproducts when exposed to sunlight. These actives can be photoprotected, according to Bonda, with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMC). EHMC was found at 5% to retain 99% retinol and 100% retinyl palmitate, whereas 74% and 63% of the materials respectively are lost without the material. He noted that formulators should know that some actives do not stay active when applied and exposed to light. For more on Bonda's research, read Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethyhexyl Methoxycrylene, an article appearing in the January 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine.

In relation to Tan's presentation, Olga Dueva-Koganov, PhD, VP of R&D at Integrated Botanic Technologies LLC, addressed film-forming polymers in ethanol-based sunscreen sprays (EBS). According to Dueva-Koganov, EBS contain a non-volatile phase (sunscreen actives, emollients and water-resistant polymers) that forms a film on skin after ethanol evaporates. Through contact angle measurements correlated with in vivo transepidermal water loss studies, she sought to demonstrate that EBS can benefit skin barrier function and are not drying. The polymers used were acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer and VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. She showed that EBS could provide a physical protective barrier that reduces TEWL and retains the stratum corneum’s water content. Specifically, she found acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer to enhance these occlusive properties.

The afternoon featured a round table discussion amongst industry experts. The first topic was whether in vitro SPF methods are viable. Both John Staton, founding director of Technical Consultancy Services and Dermatest, and Joe Stanfield, co-founder and president of Suncare Research Laboratories, agreed that the methods are not viable. Staton noted, "We can't replicate the behavior of human skin in vitro. We also need to compensate for degradation." Stanfield added, "The current substrates are not viable and dynamic measurements are required." The second topic was if a critical wavelength of 370 nm or more provides adequate UV protection. Dueva-Koganov argued that it does provide adequate protection because low wavelength products are not allowed to make broad spectrum claims. She added that avobenzone can meet 370 nm at low use levels and creative formulators will be able to use low active levels to achieve this critical wavelength. Dominique Moyal, PhD, of L’Oréal, added that in addition to this critical wavelengths, you must also have a SPF/UVAPF ratio of less than 3. The next topic was if the labeled SPF should reflect the exact amount of SPF tested. Tan noted that SPF values provide a useful measure of sunburn protection and he asked if there is any proof that 5 or 10 intervals are clinically relevant. Nadim Shaath, PhD, president of Alpha R&D Ltd., found that it would benefit the consumer to have a small amount of SPF values like Europe.

The second day kicked off with a talk by Jennifer Rempe, global director of regulatory, safety and consumer affairs for Energizer Personal Care LLC, on global sunscreen regulation. Rempe gave an overview of past and current sunscreen regulation around the world. She noted that chemical legislation, nanotechnology, prohibited preservatives and endocrine disrupters may affect sun care in the future. She listed actives that are banned, discontinued and limited to certain regions. She added, "I don't think [the United States] is getting new sunscreen actives any time soon." Also, she noted that it is easier to develop a sunscreen in the United States and adapt it for other markets.

Stephan Banzinger, PhD, manager of development of cosmetic actives for Rahn AG, followed with a talk on adding additional actives to sunscreens that have an added value. These include actives that: protect from free radicals, protect cells and DNA, protect stem cells and reduce age spots. He provided actives from his company that could provide these added values.