IFSCC Focus: High Throughput Formulating, Next Generation Lipstick, NMF and More

By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Posted: October 19, 2010

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Based on this mechanism, a lipstick base formula was prepared with glyceryl isostearate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and glycerol; the resulting lipstick exhibited better gloss and hydration than standard film-forming sticks and was transfer-resistant. This presentation won the IFSCC’s Applied Research Award, presented during the closing ceremony and gala. Co-authors included Tomo Osawa, Noriko Tomita and Tanemasa Nagano, all of Shiseido.

The third day of sessions opened with a keynote from Gillian M. Eccleston PhD, of the University of Strathclyde (UK) on the challenges of formulating and processing structured fluid and semisolid dermatological products. She described how it is important to understand the relationship between microstructure and rheology at all stages of manufacture, storage and use to develop meaningful rheological tests that characterize the formulation and to control its quality. Specifically, Eccleston described the gel network theory—the manner in which fatty amphiphiles and surfactants interact with water to form a powerful structuring mechanism in aqueous lotions and creams.

Philippe Mondon of Sederma presented on a sphingosine-1-phosphate-like lipid that according to Mondon triggers mechanisms to improve skin moisture homeostasis and barrier function. He also described a novel noninvasive device called the Aeroflexmeter that associates the contactless deformation of the skin by compressed air and its dynamic measurements by a high frequency laser line profilometer.

Satoru Hashimoto of the Nikkol Group described hexasomes, a delivery vehicle shown to optimize the permeation of actives through the SC. Hashimoto proposed that the hexosomes work by fusing to the lamellar phase of the SC. Finally, Seiji Hesegawa of Nippon Menard Cosmetic Co. presented research on skin-derived stem cells for repair functions in skin care. Particularly, sweet cherry seed extract was found to promote the proliferation of stem cells in skin, while Boat steerculia seed extract promoted keratinocyte differentiation and purple barley seed promoted collagen synthesis of fibroblasts. A two-month continuous use test of a skin cream containing these ingredients showed improvements in skin texture and wrinkles.

However, while this work was compelling, during the question and answer session, Eric Perrier of LVMH apologetically disagreed with this approach to repair. “I have doubts over the safety of proliferation as an approach to repair,” he said.