Behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate for Hair Conditioning

Jun 1, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Tao Gao, Sino Lion (USA), Ltd., East Hanover, NJ US; and Feng Zan, Nanjing Huashi Chemical Co., Ltd., and Nanjing University of Technology, Nanjing, China
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Title: Behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate for Hair Conditioning
behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphatex shampoox conditionerx hair softeningx
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Keywords: behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate | shampoo | conditioner | hair softening

Abstract: Combining quaternary ammonium and phosphate structures results in a material with amphoteric characteristics. Here, the authors describe behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, which was assessed in shampoo and conditioner bases for hair conditioning, softening, combability and anti-static properties; subjective panelist evaluations also were conducted.

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Tao Gao and F Zan, Behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate for Hair Conditioning, Cosm & Toil 129(5) 50-55 (Jun 2014)

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Long carbon chain quaternary ammonium salts are cationic surfactants. They are used widely as conditioners to keep hair flexible and soft and to improve combability, among other benefits. Long hydrocarbon chain quaternary ammonium salts also carry a positive charge on their nitrogen atom, and thus have good affinity to hair. After shampoo and conditioner treatments, they remain deposited on the hair surface, which provides good combing, anti-static and detangling performance. However, long carbon chain quaternary ammonium salts are not compatible with anionic surfactants. They form complexes and precipitates in the formulation, which create instabilities. In some cases, modifications to the molecular structure can improve compatibilities—with the addition of ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) groups, for example.

In contrast to cationics, alkyl phosphate esters are anionic surfactants, widely used in body washes and facial cleansers. Here, the authors combined the former quaternary ammonium structure with this phosphate structure to produce a surfactant with both positive and negative charges (i.e., an amphoteric structure), resulting in behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (BMDCP). Such long carbon chain quaternary salt-phosphate esters have desired amphoteric characteristics, in addition to preservative effects. This article reports the authors’ findings on the benefits of this material for hair care applications.

Materials and Methods

BMDCP is a naturally derived phospholipid composed predominantly of diester and triester phosphatides with multiple chain groups. Having an amphoteric character, it is compatible with most types of ingredients, including anionic surfactants. Here, the authors assessed its hair conditioning effects.

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Table 1. Effects on Combing

Table 1. Effects on Combing

Effects of BMDCP and control on combing

Table 2. Three Test Conditioners (A, B and C)

Table 2. Three Test Conditioners (A, B and C)

Three rinse-off conditioners containing BMDCP and stearyl alcohol were prepared for visual characterization, hair softening and combability tests.

Figure 1. BMDCP structure

Figure 1. BMDCP structure

Chemical structure of behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate

Figure 2. Reduction in combing forces after shampoos

Figure 2. Reduction in combing forces

Reduction in combing forces after different shampoo treatments

Figure 3. Microscopy of Formula A

Figure 3. Microscopy of Formula A

Microscopy image of Formula A under crossed polarizers, 100×

Figure 4. Microscopy of Formula B

Figure 4. Microscopy of Formula B

Microscopy image of Formula B under crossed polarizers, 100×

Figure 5. Microscopy of Formula C

Figure 5. Microscopy of Formula C

Microscopy image of Formula C under crossed polarizers, 100×

Figure 6. Microscopy of Formula C, 400×

Figure 6. Microscopy of Formula C, 400×

Microscopy image of Formula C under crossed polarizers, 400×

Figure 7. Changes in bending force

Figure 7. Changes in bending force

Changes in bending force of Asian and bleached hair

Figure 8. Reduction in combing forces (bleached hair)

Figure 8. Reduction in combing forces

Reduction in combing forces required for treated bleached hair tresses

Figure 9. Reduction in combing forces (Asian hair)

Figure 9. Reduction in combing forces (Asian hair)

Reduction in combing forces required for treated Asian hair tresses

Footntoes [Gao 129(5)]

a Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT-160), Dia-Stron Ltd.

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