Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has launched an emulsifier for w/s color cosmetic and antiperspirant emulsions. Abil EM 97 S (INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone) optimizes the dimethicone chain length and the polyether composition to provide a silky skin feel and good emulsification properties.
According to the company, the emulsifier contains <0.3% D5 and <0.1% D4. Due to its structure, the emulsifier shows high compatibility to silicone oils and fluids but also show compatibility to other typical non-silicone emollients, such as esters, ethers and carbonates. It is, therefore, suitable as a co-emulsifier in w/o and o/w emulsions.
In color cosmetic formulations, the emulsifier is often combined with other emulsifiers that provide good emulsion stability. Antiperspirant formulations incorporating the emulsifier provide fast release of the active from the w/o or w/s emulsion, according to the company.
Although the ingredient ideally is suited for color cosmetic and antiperspirant applications, it can be formulated into skin care and sun care formulations due to its sensory benefits.The company recommends formulating the emulsifier at 2.0–4.0% as a single emulsifier and at 1.0–2.0% as a co-emulsifier.