A Hydrophilic Silicone Elastomer for Broader Formulating Flexibility

By: Isabelle Van Reeth and Xinyan R. Bao, Dow Corning (China) Holding Co., Ltd.; Kelli Dib and Roxanne Haller, Dow Corning Corp.

Posted: November 1, 2012, from the November 2012 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Silicone elastomers have claimed a strong position in the realm of skin care and color cosmetics as consumers continue to focus on luxurious aesthetics, distinctive textures and comfortable wear. First-generation silicone elastomers introduced a dry, powdery sensation that left a unique after-feel on the skin.¹ As the technology advanced, these cross-linked silicone polymers expanded beyond carrier fluids such as dimethicone and cyclomethicone, to other organic volatile ingredients that extended their formulating possibilities² and allowed broader capabilities with organic materials.

A recent development takes the versatility of silicone elastomers a step further by combining an alkyl methyl siloxane carrier fluid of moderate volatility with a high molecular weight polyglycol-modified silicone elastomer, referred to as a hydro elastomer blend. The result is a material that meets the difficult formulating challenge of combining organic compatibility with the ability to incorporate water and/or polar solvents with polar actives, as will be shown. Note that for ease of reading, in this article, the following nomenclature is used: silicone elastomer blend, where INCI = Dimethicone Crosspolymer; silicone organic elastomer blend, where INCI = Dimethicone/bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer; and hydro elastomer blend, where INCI = PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer.

This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, but you can purchase the full-text version.