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Bench & Beyond: Peptides in the Pipeline for Antiaging
By: Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: November 1, 2006, from the November 2006 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Want to give a clear signal about your intentions to add antiaging efficacy to a skin care product? If so, add an ingredient whose whole purpose in life is signaling, i.e., delivering a chemical message that up regulates or down regulates a particular cellular function. That signaling ingredient is the peptide.
A peptide begins with an α-amino acid, which is a molecule that contains amine and carboxyl functional groups attached to the same carbon atom (Figure 1). Twenty of these amino acids are used by cells in protein biosynthesis specified by the general genetic code. A peptide is a molecule formed by arranging any of these amino acids in a defined order and linking each acid to the next with an amide bond.This fusion peptide is claimed to be highly stable and have superior skin absorption capability. It reportedly provides a skin antiaging agent having superior synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, antiaging effects and improved durability of the effects. The patent discloses a method for preparing one of these peptides. Also disclosed are the results from in vitro tests of the peptide’s collagen synthesis, antiaging effects, transdermal absorption (penetration into skin cells), skin irritation and cytotoxicity...