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Plumping Lips with Portulaca Extract
Posted: March 27, 2009
Sederma has introduced a lip plumping ingredient made from portulaca extract. Volulip (INCI Not Provided) is an active substance that is said to increase the surface of the central area of the lips.
Portulaca extract is associated with a natural modified matrikine-mimetic peptide, which stimulates hyaluronic acid synthesis.
The company conducted in vitro tests to demonstrate the product's mechanism of action and efficacy. It tested three axes including: stimulation of dermal matrix molecules (collagen 1, collagen 3, fibronectin, HSP47), reinforcement of DEJ molecules (collagen 4, laminin 5) and improvement of hydric sphere (hyaluronic acid, aquaporin 3). It also carried out two clinical studies to prove efficacy on youth, hydration and lip volume. The first clinical study involved 29 panellists with a twice daily application of a balm containing 1% of the lip active for a month. It associated several complementary methods such as Aeroflexmeter, a device developed and patented by Sederma that allows to characterize skin mechanical properties without any contact, thanks to a compressed air jet; fringe projections (FOITS); and MoistureMeter-D. The second clinical study was carried out on 21 panellists to measure re-densification with an ultrasonor echograph. From its tests, the company reported gains of +13.3% in firmness, +50.6% in hydration, +10.5% in softness, +15.1% in volume and +9.2% in curvature (radius of curvature of the lower lip). It also reported an increase of +19.6% of the surface of the central area of the lower lip for volunteers with very fine lips.