Copalis has developed cosmetic active peptides from seaweed-similar raw materials. Sea Plant Peptides are produced from halophyte plants. "Halos" and "phyton" mean salt and plant in Greek respectively. A halophyte is applied to all plants growing in salty soil, rich in sodium chloride and other salts. Halophytes are traditionally found by the sea shore and; therefore, have developed a salt-tolerant mechanism. In addition, they have developed the ability to resist other harsh environmental conditions.
The company does not use wild halophytes, but rather sustainably produces these plants through the extraction process. Extracted from sea lavender, sea fennel and sea beet, the Sea Plant Peptides are obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis followed by purification steps to select the active peptides.
Sea Beet Peptide (Beta maritima) was developed to fight against the over production of melanin for skin whitening. The sea beet contents were analyzed with cosmetic compounds such as polyphenols, niacine, ferulic acid and vitamin C at high concentrations. This peptide helps to complete against natural ligand by slowing down the melanization process, therefore blocking melanin synthesis. According to the company 3-5% of the active has a depigmenting effect by inhibiting up to 110% of the melanin synthesis.
Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum) has been studied for its aromatic properties as well as its high content in antioxidant compounds including vitamin C, flavonoids and carotinoids. Sea Fennel Peptide was created as an anti-blemish ingredient. An angiogenisis testing was performed and the tubules length was measured with an image analysis system. Results show that a 1% solution of the peptide decreased tubules length. This peptide inhibits angiogenisis and can be formulated into anti-redness and anti-blemish skin care.
The final peptide, Sea Lavender Peptide (Limonium latifolium) was developed for antiaging and sun care formulations. Sea lavender, also known as marsh rosemary, grows in high salt concentrations. The plant fights against this stressful condition by accumulating osmolytes and antioxidants. The peptide reportedly limits H202 production after UVA and UVB radiation. Tests show that the peptide's protective activity is as high as a third of BHAs.
Due to the low molecular weight of the peptides, they are a soluble form of protein and are active at low concentrations. These biomimetic peptides were developed for skin care formulations that aim to provide antiaging, photo damage, skin lightening and anti-blemish properties. The company notes that all three peptides have a high ORAC value ranging from 400-600umol TE/g. The pepides will be launched at in-cosmetics 2009.