Fresh Seaberry Restorative Body Cream is an ultra-hydrating and nourishing treatment designed to calm and relieve irritation. Its claims are straightforward moisturizing, nourishing and calming claims that are easily supported by the multitude of ingredients in the formula. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims and functionality.
This is a traditional o/w emulsion, and the emollients include: dicaprylyl carbonate, dimethicone, Prunus aremeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, squalane, omega rich Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn or seaberry) oil and Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil.
More than likely, any ingredient listed after cranberry seed oil is in the formula at 1% or less. Beeswax and Shorea robusta seed butter, obtained from the Sal tree grown in India, provide additional emolliency and softening properties and help increase skin barrier protection. The primary emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate, palmitic acid, PEG-100 stearate and stearic acid along with the less commonly used jojoba alcohol and potassium jojobate. The use of a liquid emulsifying polymer blend of sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated polydecene and PPG-5 laureth-5 helps to thicken the formula. Cetyl alcohol and xanthan gum also help to thicken and stabilize.
The anti-irritation claim is based on hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and maltooligosyl glucoside, which are commercially available as a blend. However, that claim usually applies to surfactant systems and this blend's use in skin care is primarily as a texture modifier. Zea mays (corn) starch helps to reduce the greasiness of this rich cream.
The cosmeceutical or “bio-active” ingredients include Limonium gerberi (sea lavender) extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and anti-inflammatory agent dipotassium glycyrrhizate.
The preservative system consists of caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid and is boosted by antioxidant pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and chelating agent disodium EDTA.
Surprisingly, fragrance is shown high in the ingredient listing following the stearic acid. Some of the fragrance components are listed out individually, including: linalool, limonene, citrate, coumarin and geraniol.