“An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” and in this case, an Activator Ampoule a day keeps the wrinkles away. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair New Science Activator Ampoule is loaded with probiotics and other cosmetic active ingredients and claims to smooth wrinkles, firm, energize, restore elasticity and whiten the skin. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.
This formula is a lightweight oil/silicone-in-water emulsion with glycereth-26, butylene glycol, glycerin and betaine as the humectants. Caprylic/capric triglyceride, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, dimethicone, glyceryl caprylate and octyldodecanol are the emollients. The formula is thickened with carbomer and xanthan gum and neutralized with pH adjustor triethanolamine. Emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers and film-formers include bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, lecithin, ceteth-3, ceteth-5, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-buteth-26, polysorbate 20, ceteth-24, choleth-24 and cetyl phosphate.
The “bio-active” or cosmeceutical ingredients are the most prolific that this author has seen in any recent formula. The extensive probiotics cocktail includes: bifida ferment lysate, Juniperus chinensis xylem extract, Sorbus commixta extract, Grifola frondosa (maitake) mycelium ferment filtrate extract, lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/viscum album (mistletoe) ferment extract and yeast ferment extract to strengthen skin’s barrier function and condition. Other cosmetic actives include: sodium hyaluronate; tripeptide-1; tripeptide-10; acetyl hexapeptide- 8; alpha-glucan oligosaccharide; vitamins niacinamide, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, adenosine, retinol, ubiquinone (co-enzyme Q10), ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and biotin; the mineral copper; and polyunsaturated fatty acids glyceryl arachidonate, glyceryl linoleate and glyceryl linolenate.
The list of botanical extracts is also extensive, including: Chamomilla recutita flower, Portulaca oleracea, Acacia arabica stem bark, Cassia alata leaf, Ophioglossum vulgatum, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine, Laminaria digitata, Manilkara multinervis leaf, Cucumis melo (melon) fruit and Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed. Oily extracts include Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed, Brassica campestris (rapeseed) sterol, cholesterol, beta-sitosterol, macadamia seed, Echium plantagineum seed, Pogostemon cablin and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables. Both hydrolyzed wheat and soy protein are present as well.
Notably, preservatives could not be identified, so the product is either self-preserving or does not require a preservative due to the self-contained nature of the ampoule.